Coming up roses

2008 Domain Road Pinot Noir Rose. Photo / Sarah Ivey

After a stuttering start, hopefully we are finally able to turn our attention to the first of the summer wine, which means welcoming back rose. Nothing smells, looks or tastes better than a chilled bottle of rose at an alfresco lunch.

Once seen as cheap lolly water masquerading as wine, in recent years rose has established a cult following. And why not?

Pinot noir and merlot grapes are most commonly used in our rose wines, both varietals that New Zealanders have genuine affection for. Pinot usually produces wines that are sweetish, lively, with the flavour of fresh strawberries and cream, often with a dash of sherbet.

Merlot-based rose is often denser, drier, more full-bodied and leans towards cherry, dark fruit and leather flavours. Of the new releases I have encountered so far this year there has been some interesting experimental blending, such as adding small amounts of sauvignon blanc.

Combining merlot and malbec has become increasingly popular, the malbec providing a level of brilliant colour and some rustic richness, while Matakana's Brick Bay produced a superb rose from 100 per cent cabernet franc some years back.

Not usually keepers, roses are best drunk while young and fresh. For a completely different rose experience, you should try a French style from the Bandol region of Provence.

Yes, they will be twice the price of the local equivalent, but a rich, rewarding experience. Bandol is regarded as the home of France's best rose and produces intense, yet delicate, faded copper-coloured and surprisingly long-living roses, because they are made predominantly from the little-known mourvedre grape. Sublime.

Recommended

2008 Domaine Lafran-Veyrolles Bandol

Essentially mourvedre grape with touches of grenache and cinsault. Cold tea and flint-tasting. Astonishing understated dry elegance, worth buying if only for the translucent colour.
Price: about $39

2008 Domain Road Pinot Noir Rose

100 per cent pinot noir grapes from this boutique Central Otago producer. Vibrant aromas of summer fruits. Soft and succulent with a hint of sweetness, but dry, lush and lovely.
Price: $21