Zoe Clark, hair stylist and director of Auckland hair salon Inco, says the best way to test is to apply a patch of colour behind the ear if you’re unsure of the ingredients or are trying something for the first time.
“If you feel any heat, irritation or inflammation, avoid that product,” she says. “In most cases, our professional products contain less chemicals. Over-the-counter is a pre-made formula, whereas in the salon, we customise the formula to suit the history of your hair in terms of previous colour, as well as the hair density and texture. Many box dyes also contain ammonia.”
Using dyes that contain ammonia can increase the risk of irritation, and the strong odour can also be irritating to the respiratory system, causing coughing or difficulty breathing if exposure is prolonged.
Ammonia is used in hair colour as it helps to open the hair cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair shaft. This allows the colour molecules to penetrate deeply into the hair cortex, where they can permanently alter the hair colour.
However, ammonia-free hair colours are becoming more common, with alternative chemicals such as MEA (monoethanolamine) used to achieve similar results with potentially less damage and irritation. Natural dyes such as henna or vegetable-based dyes can be gentler on the hair and scalp too.
Salons often have access to high-quality ammonia-free dyes and can customise treatments to minimise damage while achieving desired results.
Achieving the exact shade you want can be challenging too and at-home dye kits can produce inconsistent results, especially if not applied evenly or if hair has had previous colour treatments.
Applying the wrong colour from the outset or having unrealistic expectations regarding a dramatic colour change can lead to disappointment. Clark says it’s also important to consider your hair type as they all absorb colour differently.
“Think about the hydration and porosity of your hair alongside its texture,” she explains. “If it’s dehydrated and/or porous, be careful not to leave it on too long to ensure it doesn’t go too dark.”
But for many people who are devoted to DIY, the pros of at-home hair colour outweigh the cons.
Advice from at-home dye devotees
Louise, a former platinum blonde who is now brunette, chooses to colour her hair at home because she also gets hair extensions, making cost a big factor. She says she spends $15-30 on a “good” box dye and time-wise, it takes 40 to 60 minutes, as opposed to three hours at the salon.
“Application can be tricky to ensure you get every area you need to colour,” she admits, “but you can use the excess leftover colour for your brows!”
“I think it’s like fake tanning; once you do it a couple of times it’s not as scary,” says Renae, a brunette. “Getting the colour right is almost the hardest part, like finding your natural colour if you’re just wanting to cover greys so that the regrowth isn’t too obvious. Your hairdresser can definitely find and cover all the greys better!”
For many of the mums I spoke to, time was a huge factor in their choice to DIY.
Mum of two Hannah, who is a brunette, says: “I never get around to making an appointment, let alone sitting in the salon for two hours. At home I can do it myself after the kids are in bed!”
But almost everyone mentioned missing out on the pampering experience of time spent in the hairdresser’s chair.
“Not having the relaxing salon vibe and good yarns” is what Lisa, who has copper hair, says is the biggest downside to at-home colour, but having red hair, she’d need to be visiting the salon every four weeks, and the costs associated with that are too prohibitive.
“If I was blonde or had highlights, I wouldn’t do my own colour,” she admits, “but seeing as it’s one shade, I’ve found it great.”
Before embarking on dyeing your hair at home, Clark says it’s important to think about the future of your hair and what kind of journey you want to be on with it long term.
“Do you want to go lighter for summer, add dimension or change the tone at some point?” she questions. If you’ve used a strong chemical colour at home, this may complicate making a change down the track.
Lucy Slight is a beauty and lifestyle columnist for the Herald. She has worked in print and digital publishing for the past 17 years in New Zealand and Australia, across several well-known fashion, beauty, entertainment, food and home titles. Recently she’s explained how to care for your hands this winter, whether all children need to be using gentle bath products on their skin, and the skincare tradies use.
