Cocktails are the smart drink

Martini - back to the basics. Picture / Carolyn Robertson

There are more kooky names in a cocktail book than there are in a horse-racing calendar. The bartender must snigger as the customer orders a "Sock it to me, bluey", or - even more cringe-making - a "Kiss my Asteroid".

There are cocktail concoctions with a licence to kill off any sense of cool. Auckland mixologists have more sense when it comes to naming cocktails. We've moved way beyond the Tootsie Rolls of the swinging 70s, to Bloody Minded Mary, concocted by Simon McGoram of Mea Culpa.

But don't label him a mixologist.

"Mixologist sounds a little serious for me, too much like science class. I'd much prefer the title of spiritual guide, a step away from the seriousness of the classroom into the bar where we can revel in worship of a Dionysus-like god."

There's often a bit of theatrics behind a cocktail name. In their book, Cocktails A-Go-Go, authors Waggnoner and Markel say Harvey Wallbanger was invented by a surfer named Harvey to salve his dented pride after wiping-out in a championship. After several concoctions he slammed his head several times against a wall.

Ouch. Pass the Brain Erazer cocktail.

At $13 to $18, cocktails are a pricey way to get plastered. They're designed to be savoured on a summer evening, preferably with a few hors d'oeuvres.

Cream-laden cocktails have been banished and replaced by infusions of kiwifruit and plums.

Bartenders are increasingly influenced by chefs. "We often bring out the cookbooks when we're thinking up new cocktail ideas," Woodward says.

Cocktails have always sidled up to social change. The sexually liberated 60s spawned drinks like Comfortable Screw and Screaming Orgasm.

These days the lounge set are more likely to sip politically minded cocktails like McGoram's Free Mandela Cocktail.

Long before Carrie made cosmopolitans so fabulous in Sex and the City, her 70s counterparts were sipping them by the shaker-load when single gals would gather at bars decked out with leaded-glass windows, dark wood and lots of foliage.

Cocktails A-Go-Go describes it as the kind of atmosphere where single birds were encouraged to flirt madly with sickly sweet cocktails in hand.

With names like Fuzzy Navel and Lemon Drop, these cocktails gained a reputation as girly drinks.

Even the authors are perplexed by the popularity of such sweet concoctions, for they produce the worst hangovers.

It's no wonder Bond and Bogart stuck to martinis.

That brings us to the shaken or stirred debate. Purists insist that stirred is the only option but it really depends on whether you're ordering gin or vodka martini.

Gin is a delicate liquor that's easily bruised, while vodka is more robust and withstands a bit of rough and tumble.

The new generation of mixologists have stirred, shaken, built, blended and muddled these cocktails for your enjoyment.

* Simon McGoram, bar manager at Mea Culpa

As a theatre graduate, Simon McGoram likes to mix a bit of theatre with his cocktails. He has been bartending for the past five years, starting by pulling pints in an English pub.

While at Auckland's De Post, McGoram won a beer-pouring competition and a trip to Belgium, where he won the World Draught Masters competition.

He became keen on cocktails after a trip to South America. His favourite is a version of the old-fashioned cocktail. He calls it Captain Watkin's Tot, named after one of his best customers, a former Navy man and a superyacht captain.

What is so appealing about making cocktails?

Getting people to step out of their comfort zones and try something they wouldn't normally drink. So many people, for example, have had bad experiences with spirits like gin after they stole a bottle of Gordons from their parents' liquor cabinet. It is most satisfying for me when I can get people drinking a spirit again that they have been off for years.

What are the trends for cocktails?

Apparently, this thing called molecular mixology is all the rage. All I can tell you is that it involves a lot of foaming and burning stuff with a blowtorch. The classics never die and have always been in vogue among the drinking elite - and I'm talking bartenders.

What's your favorite cocktail?

It has to be a bone-dry gin martini with three stuffed olives. Simplicity and perfection are still the most common household name for any cocktail.

* Rick Togapuna, barman at the Langham Hotel

A mixologist at various international locations for the past 10 years, Togapuna's most enjoyable experience was working at a beach bar in the Caribbean.

What is so appealing about making cocktails?

The freedom to be creative with a broad range of high quality products, giving you the opportunity to make unique beverages.

Who do you most like making cocktails for?

For people who appreciate the skill and time that goes into making each and every cocktail.

What are the trends for cocktails?

Flavoured vodka cocktails, plus old-fashioned favourites like the martini, sidecar, manhattan, and gin fizz.

What's your favourite cocktail?

A margarita, because it was the first cocktail I learned to make. Over the years I've experimented with different combinations and have now found what I believe to be the perfect one.

* Needham Woodward and Matt Jeffrey, mixologists at Match Lounge Bar

As the ace team at Match Lounge Bar, Woodward and Jeffery honed their skills in some of Auckland's top bars and eateries. Woodward won the Lewisham Award for the most outstanding cocktail list and Jeffery was runner-up. Match has the distinction of being included in British publisher Mitchell Beazley's Signature Cocktails from the World's Coolest Bars.

Who do you most like making cocktails for?

People who are prepared to give new tastes a go.

What are the trends for cocktails?

Searching for elusive ingredients and tastes.

Does the cocktail hour still exist?

Yes, every hour it seems at the moment

What's your favourite cocktail?

Tequila mint julep and the [whisky-based] old-fashioned martini.


* Sherina Holland, Bellini bar manager, Hilton

In her previous role as bar manager at London's Charlotte Street Hotel, Holland was in demand from London's high-profile movie and music types. In 2003, she was shortlisted for the best bar manager in the Class Magazine industry awards.

Memorable moments during your cocktail career?

Making hundreds of martinis for the Tomorrow Never Dies after party in London.

What are the trends for cocktails?

People are going back to the basics - the old-school cocktails. Fresh flavours like ginger and lemongrass are also a big influence.

What is so magical about cocktails?

It's the envy factor. You're indulging in something completely decadent and glamorous - an escape from your ordinary life.

* Andrew Knox, Pasha bar manager

Never having to wear a tie or fight traffic are two reasons Knox has stayed behind the bar at Pasha for the past two years. More importantly, it's the chance to work in an industry full of great people who enjoy themselves.

Who do you most like making cocktails for?

Beautiful ladies, people who tip, and those who appreciate the time and effort of making a great cocktail.

What are the trends for cocktails?

The line between the kitchen and the bar is becoming increasingly blurred. We're using similar ingredients and prep techniques. Fresh seasonal fruits, homemade sugar syrups, spices, fresh herbs and flavoured foams are now commonplace behind the bar. But the classics, if done right, will always be in vogue.

So how come cocktails are so popular with the ladies?

Taste, colour, image, and they've seen them on TV.


COCKTAIL TIPS

* Every cocktail bar should contain: shaker, strainer, marked jigger or shot-glass for measuring spirits, corkscrew, bottle opener, cutting board, paring knife, ice bucket, ice tongs, stirring spoon and cocktail napkins.

* Fresh ingredients are a must.

* Cocktails should be cold, so chill the glasses and mixes.

* It's essential to get the spirit measurements accurate.

* Never use a coloured glass.

* Ice, lots of ice, and a spoonful of sugar syrup help the medicine go down.

* Don't make cocktails while you're under the influence.