Civic Grand Dining, Auckland City

By CARROLL DU CHATEAU for canvas

It is not often you finish a meal, lick your lips and can honestly say, "I enjoyed every mouthful of that."

Well that was how it was when we tried the Civic Grand Dining for a quick pre-show dinner. At first glance the graceful, windowless room, with its inky roof, looked strange decked out in white-clothed tables. This, remember, is the the downstairs Wintergarden bar that is usually packed with people trying to buy wine and icecreams from the infuriatingly slow Civic serving staff.

Now, as Mamma Mia! settles into its season, the people at the Edge have transformed the space into a fine-dining restaurant, for pre-theatre eaters. With, we must say, mixed success.

There are around 52 tables dotted about, without the softening affect of, say, a wall of greenery. Each table sports a large number, obviously to help the waiters who speed about in black Austin's catering aprons, intent on getting diners in, fed and out within an hour and a half. They recommend you come at 6.30 or earlier to ensure you're there, ready and waiting, when the curtain goes up at 8pm. Although we told our waiter we weren't going to the show, things happened with amazing speed.

There are three entrees, three main-course choices and three desserts to choose from. Two courses cost $55 and a third an extra $12.

Our entrees, a warm tart of vine-ripened tomatoes, caramelised red onions, olives and creamy chevre (feta) topped with prosciutto for me, and basil cured salmon for Brian, topped with wasabi caviar and sour cream, arrived like lightning. And delicious they were too - the salmon, a cross between gravlax and smoked salmon, was plentiful, the tart, moist, sweet and spicy with a crisp, flaky crust.

Our drinks too were outstanding. You may think a good G&T is a pushover. Not so. Over 14 months of ordering them at restaurants, this was the best: exactly enough ice, aromatic lemon to flavour, perfect. Shame they didn't tell us that the champagne offered beforehand was complimentary.

At speed we moved along to our main courses - roasted poussin with kumara and thyme gnocchi for Brian, and lamb loin for me. Again the food was of a superb standard. The whole small chicken was moist and intensely flavoured, the gnocchi light. My lamb was tender, just pink enough, the green beans crunchy, and the potato mashed with enough butter to transform it into a creamy delight.

Although we planned to pay the extra $12 each and order dessert, only the valiant Brian made it to the creme brulee. Again it was perfect.

Overall it would have helped if we'd known that the proffered glasses of Lindauer, plus tea, coffee and a brimming parfait glass of chocolaty petit fours were part of the package. We could have done with some energising music, the air-con set warmer. Also, those efficient Austin's waiters need to memorise their tables. Nothing ruins the ambience like a great table number alongside the candle.

The booking system is unusual too. After 4.30pm the phone number below goes through to an answerphone and they call you back; you can book online, or simply roll along.

Ambience: Slightly barn-like.

Cost: $122 including two cocktails (in lieu of champagne), a beer and two glasses of wine.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.