Cin Cin On Quay

Cin Cin On Quay led the way in making a splash on the city waterfront. Picture / Babiche Martens

Herald rating: * * * *

The more things change the fewer things stay the same. Which is why we should give thanks for Cin Cin. She has been around for 18 years, opening just after the dark days of October 1987. One suspects that she was planned with what used to be called yuppies in mind, for Cin Cin was the model for the Auckland bistro.

Later there would be Metropole and VBG and Blitz but she had designer style and a menu that wasn't steak'n'chips or alleged veal with approximately marsala sauce. And Cin Cin was on the waterfront. With a view of waves and wharves. What a radical concept for downtown Auckland.

It could not last, of course. Ponsonby fought back. Parnell champed at the bitters. The Viaduct sailed into port. Cin Cin drifted into a backwater. But overseas visitors adored her, loved her position at the ferry wharf, loved her international style.

As an overseas visitor, Virginia has observed comings and goings in Cin Cin since '88. Never eaten there. She has, however, looked upon the wine list where it is red before catching the Waiheke ferry.

Suppose you want to read about the food. The spring menu is shorter than the winter. They have removed the fussy "trios of" - three things chef can do with beef or karengo-seared sashimi.

Virginia began with kingfish carpaccio, "cooked" in blood orange and ruby grapefruit juices. She felt that the fish needed to make the acquaintance of the citrus for a little longer than chef had allowed. Or the application of more citrus. I tasted, and agreed.

For me, cheese tart. This was stronger than most - goat cheese, salted and roasted baby beets, shallots, a cab-sav syrup. Some almonds may have been involved. It is a meal in itself.

They do not serve mains at Cin Cin. The menu commands "Eat - Talk - Drink - Watch" and those who have been around the City of Squalls know that has been Cin Cin's motto since Day One. Herself's choice: duck en presse, breast roasted with chestnuts, spinach, bread and candied orange sauce. She thought her duck a tad underdone. I, who like food on the sanguine side, supported her.

I revelled in pan-fried snapper, firstly because it is my favourite fish, secondly because of the plate-mates: sauteed artichokes, fennel, leek, baby potatoes (too soon for jersey bennes, but ... ) and the perfect sauce, lemon cappuccino. Twas good.

Would we do dessert? Would we? With that 70s classic, bombe alaska? Seen that on a menu lately? Two spoons attacked rich meringue, nougat, passionfruit, orange. Sometimes it's nice to be a kid again.

There is a twist in the tale. I'd taken some time off the day job and was wandering through Mt Eden Village. The phone rang from somewhere in the shoulderbag next to Sabato's talleggio.

"It's Joe Boreham," said the caller. "The Viva photographer's turned up. Why do you always do this to me?"

I had some sympathy. A year back Boreham had just taken over the kitchen at Chandelier and I dropped in. Now he had started work as head chef for Cin Cin on Wednesday. So, Thursday, day two of overseeing the ovens. New kitchen, new staff, new menu printed only the previous day. Guess who fronted up?

One can't, of course, divulge the contents of a column before publication. It's against the Restaurant Reviewers Code of Ethics. But ... "Joe," I said, "I don't think you've got too much to worry about."

For Cin Cin remains reliably On, rather than Off, Quay.

Address: Ferry Building, 99 Quay St, Downtown, ph 307 6966
www.cincin.co.nz
Open: 7 days 10am-late
Cuisine: Pacific rim
From the menu: Crayfish ravioli, slow cooked tomatoes, baby leeks, pea puree, aromatic vanilla butter $24
Lamb cutlets, kumara, chorizo fritters, buttered spinach, salsa verde, toasted cumin seeds $38
Chocolate fondant tart, creme fraiche ice cream, raspberry caramel $14
Vegetarian: Options on menu
Wine: Aotearoa's rugged individuals, some visiting celebs