Chandelier, Ponsonby

By JAN CORBETT for canvas

There's a lot to be said for under-promising and overdelivering. It seems to work in politics. And I'd like to suggest it might work well in the restaurant trade. At least that's what I thought after leaving Chandelier, on Ponsonby Rd.

The sumptuous, velvet-curtained entrance, the elegant maitre d' in her long black, backless dress, the inclusion of a degustation menu ($80) among a line-up that sits towards the upper-end of the restaurant price range, and the arrival of a delightful and complimentary appetiser of chilled cauliflower mousse topped with salmon and cucumber, all suggest the dining experience will be very fine indeed.

It started well. Each of the wines on the extensive wine list is offered by the glass. My Craggy Range Gimlett Gravel chardonnay ($11 by the glass) soon became the preferred choice of the table.

Two of us began with the seafood tasting platter ($20) with a delectable offering of tuna, snapper, oyster, prawn and salmon, plus a seafood tortellini and tart. It boded well. Terrie had the tuna, with langoustine (scampi) salad ($20) and was equally happy.

It was the main dishes we felt descended into the ordinary. I don't normally order chicken, but something about the combination of it with pancetta, mushrooms and red wine sauce ($28) had me break that tradition. I shouldn't have. It was dry and flavourless.

Terrie said her John Dory with crab risotto and baby leeks ($27) was also unremarkable. Ken's rack of lamb with chorizo sauce ($29.50) had beautifully cooked rare lamb, but although a fan of the vegetable he was unimpressed by the accompanying eggplant puree.

We were fortunate to have been seated in one of the booths. Tables for two have couples seated side by side, which must be odd if you hardly know the person. It looked rather like sitting at a bus stop, actually. At the back of the restaurant is a lively bar which, like the head-banging music, clashes with the ambience you expect from the decor.

The service was young and gauche, but somehow endearing.

We ended the evening sharing a cheese platter with quince jelly, mmmmm. But we left thinking we would need a good reason to go again.

Ambience

Opulent

Cost

$256 for three entrees and main courses, cheese platter and six glasses of wine and two dessert wines.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.