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Home / Lifestyle

Cancer kills star restaurant critic A.A. Gill

By Rupert Hawksley
Daily Telegraph UK·
11 Dec, 2016 04:00 PM3 mins to read

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Nicola Formby accepted A.A. Gill's proposal of marriage after he revealed his illness to his long-time partner. Photo / Getty Images

Nicola Formby accepted A.A. Gill's proposal of marriage after he revealed his illness to his long-time partner. Photo / Getty Images

British food critic and newspaper columnist A.A. Gill has died at the age of 62 after a brief battle with cancer.

The father of four revealed his illness to his readers in one of his last restaurant reviews last month, writing: "I've got an embarrassment of cancer, the full English. There is barely a morsel of offal not included. I have a trucker's gut-buster, gimpy, malevolent, meaty malignancy."

Gill revealed at the same time that the news of his cancer had prompted a successful proposal of marriage to his partner of 23 years, Nicola Formby.

He said in a recent interview that he didn't "feel he'd been cheated of anything".

"I realise I don't have a bucket list," he said. "I don't feel I've been cheated of anything. I'd like to have gone to Timbuktu, and there are places I will be sorry not to see again.

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"But actually, because of the nature of my life and the nature of what happened to me in my early life - my [alcohol] addiction - I know I have been very lucky.

"At the last minute I found something I could do. Somebody said: why don't you watch television, eat good food and travel and then write about it? And, as lives go, that's pretty good."

Gill, who was married to British Home Secretary Amber Rudd during the 90s, said the disease had spread to several parts of his body, restricting his ability to exercise and travel during treatment.

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A dyslexic who dictated his copy, Gill joined the Sunday Times in 1993, after a brief spell at Tatler. According to his colleague Lynn Barber, "he quickly established himself as their shiniest star".

Sunday Times editor Martin Ivens said: "His wit was incomparable, his writing was dazzling and fearless, his intelligence was matched by compassion."

Gill had studied art at the Central St Martins College of Art of Design and the Slade School of Fine Art.

A talent from an early age, Gill was also an alcoholic who, at 30, was told by doctors he would be dead by Christmas if he didn't stop drinking. He never drank again but wrote about his addiction in a memoir, Pour Me: A Life, published last year.

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William Sitwell, fellow restaurant critic and editor of Waitrose Food and editorial director (food) at John Brown Media, said: "Adrian had a way with words, phrases and sentences that elevated his prose from mere language. His text danced across the page, there was sheer delight, music even, in the way he wrote.

"He wrote about restaurants as someone who knew a great deal about food but did not think of themselves as part of the food scene. Somehow he remained an outsider, which meant he could remain impartial."

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