Cafe Servo, Te Atatu

By PHOEBE FALCONER for canvas

"O", said Alice. "You can't miss it. Left at the first roundabout past the Te Atatu Peninsula off-ramp. Old service station. Name starts with O."

Right you are then. Follow directions and find old service station. Cafe Servo.

The number of happy brunchers at outside tables supported the view that this was where Alice had meant, so in we went.

Putting a cafe inside the service bay of a disused gas station is inspired. There are floor-to-ceiling windows, shielded from direct sun by the old forecourt roof, all the room in the world and, in Te Atatu, a stunning vista across paddocks to the Waitemata Harbour.

The breakfast/brunch menu is short but satisfactory. Sally's choice of fresh fruit salad with berry coulis, yoghurt and biscotti ($9) was indeed fresh, with the coulis lifting the flavour of the abundant watermelon.

David, after a hard night, went for the Kiwi breakfast ($14.95) and polished off his offering of sausage, mushrooms, tomato, bacon, poached eggs and toast in no time flat. He was especially impressed by the egg-shaped hashbrowns, crunchy on the outside and just the right rough texture inside.

Bill, with an incurable sweet tooth, ordered the Sunday Special of french toast with bacon, bananas and maple syrup ($14.50, or $12 without the bacon), and professed himself pleased, although he could have done with another slice of bacon.

But I really lucked out. My smoked kahawai cake with soft-cooked egg and hollandaise sauce ($13.50) came with wedges of lemon, a cake solid with fish and fresh herbs and coated with a perfectly light sauce. Sally's hovering fork was smacked away and there was silence, apart from little moans of pleasure, until I had finished.

Servo has been open only since mid-November and they are really trying hard to get something good going in a cafe-free zone. Kids are provided for with books, a well-stocked playpen and highchairs. The adults get magazines and comfortable sofas if they want them. The service is bright, friendly and prompt, the coffee is good and hot.

Thank you, my alphabetically challenged friend. Servo is a great find.

Hours: 7.30am to 4-ish Monday and Tuesday; open for dinner Wednesday to Saturday; 8-4 Sunday.

Parking: Easy.

Ambience: Light, bright, casual.

Licensed: Yes.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.