Cafe 98, Birkenhead

By ELEANOR BLACK for canvas

Cafe 98, in Birkenhead's cutesy village strip, is immediately appealing. An old butcher's shop, it draws considerable character from the long marble tables which hug the windows, interesting old knick-knacks, and large brunch menu with a Mediterranean bent.

I chose a lighter option, called simply hummus ($8.50), a small bowl of the thick chickpea spread topped with olive oil, chopped onion, aioli, a lemon wedge and salsa, served with triangles of pita bread. It looked a tad small, but was surprisingly filling and simply delicious.

In the same vein, my mochaccino ($4) was far better than average, the right balance of piquant coffee and sweet chocolate.

Tim's eggs benedict with bacon on an English muffin ($14.90) was a fine rendition of the classic, with a generous glaze of hollandaise. The eggs were perfectly cooked, the bacon plentiful and the muffin tasted fresh-baked. His orange juice ($4) was fresh, gloriously orange and almost big enough to justify the price.

We shared a dish of patatas bravas ($7.50), rough chunks of spiced potatoes served with tomato salsa and a light dousing of sour cream - very hearty, and a small meal on its own if you have a real hankering for potato.

We were in a hurry, but Cafe 98 would be a lovely spot to linger over coffee or something sweet from the counter display.

You can sit outside without fear of choking on the petrol fumes which taint streetside eating in Ponsonby, and the communal seating inside means you get to know your dining neighbours, which we enjoyed.

If you lived nearby, this place could easily become a treasured weekend habit.

Parking: Loads.

Ambience: Funky and relaxed with a nod to the past.

Open: Monday, 9am until 4pm. Tuesday to Sunday, 9am until customers leave.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.