Bursting your bubble

NV Drappier Carte Blanche. Photo / Supplied

How do you feel about drinking Champagne in those larger, rounder, balloonish burgundy-style glasses rather than elegant, long, thin-stemmed flutes?

According to Michel Drappier of the smallish Champagne Drappier House, established in 1808, that's what we should be doing.

After 100 or so years explaining that Champagne should be drunk from flutes, there is now a strong body of opinion that the larger more generous pinot noir/burgundy type of glass should be used, to allow the aroma of the wine to really open up.

They may have a point, although in extracting a better "nose" from Champagne I suspect the bubbles don't dance with the same level of intensity as they do when released from the vertical constraints of the more traditional Champagne flute.

But, as Monsieur Drappier is at pains to point out, his family's style is drier and more food-friendly, so they are less concerned with the celebratory visual experience than they are with the actual taste and gravitas of what's in the glass.

"We turned organic in 1989 and we are one of the lowest users of sulphur so our product appeals to those with sulphur allergies," says Drappier.

He is also keen to point out they have a hands-off approach, as much as possible, in the winemaking process, in an attempt to bring more weight and muscle to the wine instead of sugar. Also, most of their Champagnes are not filtered. As a result they develop more protein, which can be a problem and can sometimes create a slight cloudiness.

Regardless, the wines are in high demand and the approach of Champagne Drappier is to be smaller and more exclusive in the 80 different countries they distribute to. It is still 100 per cent family owned and they produce only Champagne, roughly 100,000 cases each year. The family cellars hold five million bottles, however.

"Let us never forget," says Drappier, "it's wine before it's Champagne."

Recommended

NV Drappier Carte Blanche
Smart entry-level Champagne that is superb value for money. Dry, with heightened floral notes and biscuity apple danish flavours. Bracing, crisp, sharp and fresh. Very food-friendly.
Price $59

2002 Drappier Grand Sendree
Big, bold, serious and divine. Fifty-five per cent pinot, 45 per cent chardonnay grapes. Huge aromas lead to a tart, dense, dry and viscous style with crushed biscuit and mild berry flavours. A special occasion tipple.
Price $110