Bugs in the system

Blackenbrook Vineyard Nelson Reserve Pinot Gris 2008. Photo / Babiche Martens

More than a hundred years ago, Europe's wine industry was almost wiped out by a tiny louse called phylloxera with a fatal taste for the continent's grapevines. A solution was found in the nick of time to save the world's classic vines from this American interloper, but vineyards across the globe still regularly face attack by plagues of pests and diseases, with some particularly nasty ones now doing the rounds.

One of the major scourges of New Zealand's vineyards is an as-yet incurable virus called leaf roll. Spread by mealy bugs, it reduces crops, can prevent grapes from ripening properly and is particularly bad news for red wines.

"Leaf roll is a major issue in New Zealand," says Nicholas Buck of Te Mata in Hawkes Bay, a region badly hit by the disease. With the only remedy, once the virus has taken hold, being to pull all the affected vines out, "it's really limiting the potential of vine age in the country," he says.

As older vines are largely credited with making more complex wines it's feared this could hold our youthful wine-growing nation back from taking its next step up in quality. While leaf roll is present in other winemaking countries, especially in South Africa where it's been a major headache for years, it seems to be spreading at a faster rate in New Zealand than anywhere else.

Given its potential to adversely affect the production of the premium wines with which New Zealand has made its name, the industry's national body, New Zealand Winegrowers, is on the case. It recently embarked on an elimination strategy to educate growers and help them identify leaf roll and remove the vines in a way that new ones are not re-infected, and is working on pest management to keep mealy bug vectors under control.

While the mealy bug has left its seemingly indelible mark on our vineyards, the glassy winged sharp shooter is one critter New Zealand's vine growers hope will never fly into their vineyards. This large leaf-hopping insect wreaked havoc across California by spreading Pierce's disease that killed thousands of hectares of vineyards. It's not here yet but is coming ever closer with sightings in the Cook Islands a couple of years back.

Another creepy crawly causing concern is the apple looper moth. Native to Australia and New Zealand, it had never been partial to grapes in the past - that is, until this year when its larvae took a liking to them in Western Australia, seriously damaging this vintage's crops.

Luckily, there's never quite been anything as devastating since phylloxera, which has now spread to most places where vines are grown. It's even found its way into our newest winegrowing areas, with only small parts of the Wairarapa, Waipara and Central Otago free of the pest.

What saved Europe's vineyards, and means we can still enjoy wine made from varieties such as pinot noir and sauvignon blanc, was the discovery that though phylloxera proved deadly to vines from their family, American vine species were resistant to its root munching, which drained the life out of European vines.

The only problem was that the wines made by these Yankee vines tasted pretty poor. However, the unappetising issue was overcome by grafting their more robust roots to the upper part of the European vines to get the best of both worlds.

It's this measure that's keeping most of the world's vineyards alive today.

Here, across the ditch and beyond

Cracking deal from Coonawarra

Rymill The Yearling Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia 2006 $16.95
Australia's Coonawarra is famed for its suave and supple cabernets and this one offers exceptional value. Made in an easy drinking fruit-driven style, it's got smooth and juicy blackcurrant fruit aplenty and an attractive savoury undertone.
(From Kumeu Cellars, Super Liquor Albany.)

Fresh and fashionable

Vina Almirante Pionero Mundi Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain 2007 $28
Made in the cool northwestern corner of Spain, albarino is currently regarded as one of Spain's hottest white grapes. The Pionero Mundi is a fine example displaying the variety's characteristic tangy citrus and mineral core encased in succulent peach and pear fruit. A great seafood wine.
(From Glengarry.)

Multifaceted gris

Blackenbrook Vineyard Nelson Reserve Pinot Gris 2008 $31
A gloriously intense and spicy pinot gris from this up-and-coming Nelson estate. Creamy and mouthfilling with intense notes of quince and clove, the sweetness and richness of this wine is expertly balanced by its fresh lemony note.
(From Caro's.)