Bubbling through recession

Champagne Bollinger Special Cuvee. Photo / Supplied

Flying in the face of the economic climate is the unavoidable realisation that expensive French Champagne has hardly missed a beat. There may have been a mild pause in international sales but not enough to unsettle the accountants, who need constant reassuring that cellar masters are still dragging out pallet-loads of vibrant bottled bubbles to quench the thirst of a panting global market.

Certainly on some mid-to-lower brands there may be a gratuitous discount, but you'll look in vain for wholesale price gouging from the superstars. You've got to take your beret off to the French. Their resilience and sense of detachment means they do not feel the need to price-chop in order to generate sales - and what a brilliant attitude to ensure your exclusive brand is protected. So what if sales slow down? Apparently sit and wait, and eventually the customers will come to their senses and be more than happy to pay whatever it takes. Hollywood endorsement helps.

Bollinger received unexpected publicity in the crazy English comedy series Absolutely Fabulous - the constant running cliche of "Bolly, sweetie, more Bolly, sweetie" can't have hurt the brand. The house of Bollinger owns 70 per cent of its vineyards and closely controls the quality of the grapes bought in. Only the first press of juice is kept, the rest is sold. This gives Bollinger its distinctive style of richness, roundness, freshness and an understated elegance.

The Champagne House of G.H. Mumm was also delighted when one of its bottles with its distinctive red sash could be clearly seen in the film Casablanca. Formally established in 1827, Mumm became involved in growing grapes and making wine in 1761 - so it has had plenty of time to produce a polished product.
The Mumm mantra is "only the best".

Today it's the third-largest Champagne producer in the world, selling about eight million bottles a year. Last word goes to that famous Frenchman, Napoleon Bonaparte; "In victory you deserve Champagne, in defeat you need it."

Recommended

NV (Non Vintage) Special Cuvee Bollinger
Entry level, almost too seductive. Light, fresh, vibrant with a whisper of yeast. Power with finesse, elegance and length. Amazingly consistent.
Price: $114

G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge
Big aromas of lemon and grapefruit along with white peaches apricots and tart apples. The mix of fresh fruit, vanilla, caramel and honeyed nuts produces an intense, well-rounded and subtly balanced Champagne.
Price: $80