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Mineral makeup has got a lot to thank Suzanne Paul's Natural Glow for. She's created a whole generation of New Zealand women hooked on the idea of makeup in a minute. Nothing's that simple really, but the idea of brushing on a face-transforming powder for instant allure has certainly boosted the appetite here for the growing worldwide trend towards mineral makeup.
Some women are hooked on mineral makeup because it's easy to use, others because (in the right formulations) it suits those with problem skin who normally react to cosmetics, and yet others because it's something new to try.
But mineral makeup has actually been around for a while, especially in the specialist skincare and film worlds. It was developed for those who couldn't tolerate other makeup, particularly after appearance surgery or because of skin conditions. Back in 1976 American company Bare Escentuals launched its Bare Minerals range and it still markets the top-selling mineral powder foundation in the States where company founder Leslie Blodgett uses women with skin conditions as spokesmodels. The range, which is free of preservatives, talc, oil and fragrance, is found in specialist salons in New Zealand and in TV makeup kits.
Another pioneer was Englishwoman Jane Iredale whose line launched in 1994. She worked in the television industry where she found mineral makeup to be easier on skin, guarding against breakouts, under studio lights.
Iredale claims to Viva that minerals far out-perform any traditional makeup. "In fact most of the cosmetic companies are now switching to mineral makeup," she says.
It's true that minerals are going mainstream, with brands like L'Oreal, Revlon, Maybelline and M.A.C in on the act. At least one other big cosmetic company is planning to launch a range in the New Year and mineral items are popping up elsewhere. The Body Shop recently starting selling its Nature's Minerals range, pushing the popular line that minerals are naturally good.
Well, yes and no. They certainly can be worn by women who've struggled to find other makeup that suits their sensitive skin, and the crushed powders do come from the earth rather than a chemical plant, but they're also from the mining industry, hardly the world's most environmentally friendly outfit.
And not all mineral makeups are equal. Some are cut with talc and other ingredients that are the very things the brand's pioneers formulated products to avoid. So if you're serious about using mineral makeup for the health of your skin then try to read the fine print (you'll need a microscope!) and ask lots of questions. If you have skin problems consult a dermatologist or seek out advice from a trusted beauty industry professional to ensure the brand you try won't cause reactions.
Iredale says the skin and pores remain unclogged by true mineral makeup because it's comprised of tiny flat reflective crystals and this is what makes it gentle and flattering on the skin.
Mineral makeup commonly includes titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mica. Finely ground, it can even include gold and semi-precious stones, adding to the light-reflecting qualities that help minimise the appearance of wrinkles.
For women who haven't been able to use regular ranges, good mineral makeup is a godsend, and ranges are expanding all the time from largely powder-based foundations, to liquid versions for those who prefer them, to blushes, eyeshadows and even lipsticks and mascaras made of non-irritating ingredients.
Mineral makeup has always struck me as, well, a bit brown, but the ranges are becoming more adventurous. Most products though, are still in earthy tones, the exception being intense pigments used in some eyeshadows that give quite dazzling colours.
Overseas, the likes of lapis lazuli and malachite have been included to achieve dazzling purple, blue and green shades.
Still, it's a mostly natural-look style of makeup, which is why it has been adopted so readily by women who've been less keen on cosmetics but still want a little help with their complexions. It can be used by those with rosacea and people who have recently had facial laser treatments or peels.
If you don't have a skin sensitivity or ethical issues about the preservatives and fillers found in some non-mineral ranges then you can mix and match items for more variety.
M.A.C's national makeup artist Amber Dreadon admits many of their adventurous younger clients use the makeup because it's new, and because of M.A.C's eye-catching metallic finishes, but she says a growing number of people are motivated to buy because they want to use only natural ingredients on their face. She's a fan herself, particularly at the weekends when brushing on some Natural Mineralize powder is an easy option for a little light coverage.
One mineral myth is that you can just powder up with one product and look completely done. Sure, you'll get coverage if you layer it on, but if you want to avoid a monotone effect you'll need to layer the colour to create contrast and definition, just as with other cosmetics, otherwise you'll get a pancake or barely there effect.
Your skin also needs to be well moisturised and do use concealer on trouble spots (yes, you can get a few mineral versions) to help give a good base.
But if you're a dab hand with a brush, there's no doubting a quick powder up with mineral makeup is an easy way to go.
Hits and myths
* Mineral makeup is so pure you can sleep in it. Well, maybe, but why would you want to? Makeup, and especially eye makeup, really should be removed before bed or you're asking for damaged lashes and morning ugliness.
* Mineral makeup can act as my sunscreen. It's true that the zinc oxide and titanium dioxide found in most mineral makeups is a natural physical barrier to both UVA and UVB rays and is commonly found in sunblocks (but these often include chemical screens as well). Check the SPF rating and be aware that brushing on a bit of powder won't give the same coverage as using a good coating of liquid sunblock. Use both if you're exposed to many rays.
* Mineral makeup will make me look younger and less wrinkled. It does help reflect light away from tiny lines, but this varies from product to product, depending on composition. Go sparingly with the really sparkly stuff as this can have the opposite effect of emphasising flaws.
* Mineral makeup is an all-in-one answer. It does often promise to be your sunscreen, foundation and powder in one, but to get the best result you shouldn't expect a miracle in one pot. If you're using powder foundation, you'll need a decent-sized fluffy brush, the kabuki-style is best, so you may have to expand the size of your makeup bag to hold this, or just have one at home and use the less effective smaller brushes that come with many products for touch-ups on the go.
* Mineral ranges only go so far, I'll have to use mainstream ranges for most of my skincare. Until recently most of the mineral ranges available here have concentrated on makeup, but increasingly skincare and anti-ageing elements are being added. If you're using minerals makeup because of sensitivities, your consultants should be advising you which skincare brands will be the most hypo-allergenic.
