Brunch review: Rāwene's Boatshed Cafe in the Hokianga

Rāwene's Boatshed Cafe, southside on the Hokianga Harbour. Photo / Northland NZ

Boatshed Cafe
8 Clendon Esplanade, Rāwene
Open 7 days: 7.30am-4pm
Ph: (09) 09 405 7728
We spent: $50 for two

WE ARRIVED:
Even on a bloody-minded winter's day, with a whipping wind and relentless rain, the Hokianga is absolutely magical. Rāwene, on the south side of the harbour, is New Zealand's third-oldest European settlement and charming 19th-century buildings are scattered along the main street and esplanade.

Boatshed Cafe, cantilevered over the water, is a local institution and the best place to eat in town (closely rivalled by the fish and chip shop, especially if you're early enough to order a freshly caught flounder). It was a warm Northland welcome from the friendly staff, despite our dishevelled appearance, and there were plenty of tables to choose from on this grey Sunday morning. We settled in at a couple of bar stools looking out to sea and imagined what it would be like in summer on the lovely outdoor deck.

WE ATE:
Predictably, The Boatshed Bene ($25) had Phil's name written all over it; he opted for the cold-smoked salmon over the free-range bacon, and his poached eggs erupted perfectly in a golden lava of yolk. I went for more of a snack with the Focaccia Finger ($9), and was so glad I did. The dough is made fresh every night, and my "finger" came filled with Churchills salami from Kerikeri, Mahoe Farmhouse gouda, and housemade relish and aioli. Apparently, the leek and mussel hot pot Kutai Pie is a favourite for lunch.

The coffee was just as it should be ($4.50 for a flat white) and the drinks menu includes a selection of Monteith's beer and local wines on rotation (served by the bottle or glass). I pocketed a slice of gluten-free raspberry and lemon cake from the cabinet for dessert.

Photo / Stephanie Holmes

WE OBSERVED:
It's a 15-minute trip across the harbour to Kohukohu on the car ferry that departs every half-hour or so from a wee jetty along from the cafe. Apparently it's another cute settlement, with a couple of art galleries and a historic hotel. The Boatshed is a family-run business and they're generous with their travel tips, so have a chat with them if you're planning to make the crossing.

Right across from the cafe is Clendon House, home to a former US consul in the 1860s and now open to the public. No time for that, though, so I settled for buying some chilli sea salt from the Boatshed's small art and craft shop then wandered a little further down the esplanade to explore a pretty mangrove boardwalk. When I got back to the cafe, Phil was still sitting by the window, nursing a second cup of coffee and gazing out to sea.

– Joanna Wane