Blood stains, skeletons at dramatic Dior collection

A model wears a creation by British designer John Galliano for Dior during his Haute Couture spring-summer 2006 collection in Paris. Picture / Reuters

PARIS - John Galliano sent out his models in skirts splashed with fake blood and painted skeletons, with crosses round their necks, to the sound of whips and clanking chains in a dramatic opening to Paris fashion week today.

"Red is the new libertine ... Dior is the new erotica", read the blood-red information sheet handed out at Christian Dior's spring-summer 2006 haute couture collection.

The models had bleached white hair and dark rims painted round their eyes. One had 1789 tattooed on her neck, the year of the French revolution. Another wore an ecru dress with a huge tulle skirt stamped with the revolutionary slogan "liberte, egalite and fraternite".

The swashbuckling British designer himself appeared at the end of the show, set in a tent bathed in red at the Paris polo club, dressed in black leather and brandishing a fencing sword.

"It was magical," said Andre Leon Talley, American Vogue's Editor at Large. "I felt the power and the drama."

While Galliano's dramatic haute couture creations may be worn less by red-carpet clients than those of some other designers, his ideas are seen as trend-setters and are at the cutting edge of fashion.

"As I often say, it (haute couture) is our research centre," said Sydney Toledano, chief executive of Christian Dior Couture.

"That's where Galliano develops the concepts that will mark the season, which will be translated afterwards into ready-to-wear, into accessories, into all the products and all the campaigns," he said.

In the audience were scattered Middle Eastern royals who are potential clients for labels like Dior and actresses such as American Mischa Barton and Monica Cruz, the little sister of Spanish star Penelope.

Several outfits were see-through or revealing to show off the structure of the dresses and the detailed embroidery which take skilled French fashion workers days to sew and stitch.

When Galliano presented his first Dior collection in 1996, critics were sceptical of his brash style. But Toledano says this has now translated into profits.

"When John first joined ... certain people were a bit sceptical but since then the company has more than tripled its business figures," he said.

The drama of Dior contrasted with the red carpet glamour at Giorgio Armani's Prive collection, the first show of the day.

"What I wanted to do was make women beautiful in front of a mirror," Armani said after the show.

Italian actress Sophia Loren applauded an ice-coloured charmeuse cocktail dress with tangerine crinoline and organza frills. Suits and dresses sparkled with crystals and elegant lines.

"I love it," Loren said after sitting through a second showing of the collection.

Armani is famous for kitting out actresses at award shows such as the Cannes film festival coming up in May.

"I thought it was a lot sexier than normal. Incredibly high shoes and some beautifully cut red carpet dresses. He really understands his market," said the London Daily Telegraph Fashion Editor, Hilary Alexander.

- REUTERS