Bless the almighty dress

Bless the almighty dress, followers of fashion, for this summer it will be one of the most useful garments you own. Anyone worshipping at the altar of high fashion has probably heard that "the dress is the new T-shirt", as designer Donna Karan said. There are so many around on the runways that they're just about as popular as the T-shirt. But what you may not know is that the new frocks are almost as wearable as a humble T-shirt.

Dressing all-in-one is not always the easiest thing. Unless you find that perfect cut and fit, a dress can be merciless if you're worried about your figure. Separates such as top and trousers or skirt and cardigan allow you to disguise the parts you worry about with layers and flatter the bits you don't.

However, the new shapes and styles in dresses mean you'll just be able to throw a dress on in the same way you chuck a T-shirt and jeans on.

And if you don't believe that such miracles happen, all you need to do is look at the waistlines. Some have wandered a few centimetres upward, others have malingered downward.

First, the upwardly mobile waistline. There's been talk of empire lines and baby doll dresses but this isn't so flattering for everyone and can, unfortunately for the fool who asked you if you were expecting, be mistaken for maternity wear.

The new summer frocks are more about an artificial waistline that sits on your ribcage, a few centimetres below the chest. And that for many humans is one of the thinnest parts of the body.

This raised waistline is used in all sorts of fabrics, prints and styles: shoestring straps on floral cottons or exotic silks, sexy satins, 70s-style yoked dresses in jersey, halternecks and even 80s throwback puffball dresses.

It's also possible to DIY this look - pick a slim-fitting dress, pick the right sized belt (thinner widths work better) and fasten higher on the abdomen than usual.

The most flattering style is probably the frock with a plunging, V-neck line that ends in an artificially high waist. It's bound to join the legendary wrap dress in the gallery of garments just about everyone can wear and look good in and it's been everywhere - in black with ruffles at Karen Walker, in pretty prints at Kate Sylvester and sleek or printed at Helen Cherry.

Because you get cleavage and a waist that's smaller than your hips, whether you possess the child-bearing hips of the pear shaped or the non-waspish waist of the apple silhouette. Designers have also toyed with dress lengths. Shorter hems, combined with sleeveless-ness, make for a sense of playfulness in florals or prints while the longer versions, with sleeves and matching jackets or cardigans in more demure colours, come from the trend for more ladylike dressing.

Then there are the waistlines that have down-shifted. These are not as popular as the raised waistlines but just as wearable. They work a bit like shift dresses or tunics and can be found at Zambesi, Workshop Denim and Kate Sylvester with lightly tailored versions at Caroline Church.

They tend to be a bit shorter and can be worn over trousers or, if you're into that boho look, over a longer skirt. It's also easy to make this one up as you go along by throwing a low-slung belt over a pretty patterned or plain tailored shirt dress.

And that, dedicated followers of fashion, is the marvel of the new summer dress. Praise be to the cunning designers who created them. Now your only problem is getting a (fake) tan on your legs and what to do with all those T-shirts.

The best dress for the figure conscious

Small on top

Flattering wrap or V-necklines or Grecian-inspired folds and ladylike frills and bows on top that add bulk and draw attention to your decolletage. True empire line and baby doll dresses as well as 60s-style sheaths with shoestring straps.

Waistless

These allow you to make your own waist wherever it suits you best, by choosing waistlines or using belts either higher or lower than usual. Wrap dresses, shirt and shift dresses with belts are a good choice.

Big on top

Necklines that break up your cleavage. V-necks and halternecks are good. With high-waisted dresses it's all about balance - try to find a dress where the skirt balances out the top.

Plus size

A fitted wrap dress always looks glamorous because it emphasises your curves and gives you an artificial waist. A tailored shirt or shift with a low-slung belt and cropped jacket can also work.

Big on the bottom

Dresses with more flared knee-length, A-line skirts or with a true waist (that is, where your waist actually is. Helen Cherry has plenty of these). Draw attention to your top half with delicate detailing. Wrap dresses, especially if they're knee length, will also suit.