KEY POINTS:
With its green herb and zingy citrus characters, sauvignon blanc is often named one of the easiest grape varieties to recognise in the glass. But all sauvignons are not alike, and neither should they be - a point amply made by the discussions and dizzying array of examples available at the World Sauvignon Congress held in Austria last month.
It's often acknowledged that great grape varieties have the ability to express the place in which they're grown and regional diversity certainly abounded in the sauvignons that streamed through the 3-day event held in Austria's sauvignon capital of Graz. These ranged from the flinty and restrained sauvignons of the Loire to riper tropical styles from South Africa; Austrian examples with their notes of dried herb and mineral, to our own pungent passionfruit and green herb-infused specimens.
The way the variety is treated in the vineyard and winery also impacts on the final style, which again varies wildly between wineries. In warmer climates like South Africa, winegrowers are striving to boost the green herbal characters that are effortless to achieve in a cool climate like ours, while we're endeavouring to play up the passionfruit that research has shown is favoured by the locals here at least.
Given sauvignon's intensely aromatic qualities, most are made in the inert steel vats that preserve these. Wood can easily overwhelm sauvignon, but the barrel-fermented examples from a classic sauvignon producing region like Bordeaux, illustrate that when used judiciously oak adds texture and complexity to the variety.
One of the most radically made wines I came across at the Congress, and one of my personal favourites from the event, was a sauvignon that had spent some time in wood but not as we usually know it. Made by Austrian biodynamic producer Andreas Tscheppe, who after leaving the grapes for his Erdfass sauvignon with their skins for a time that would induce a sauvignon-like sweaty character in most Kiwi winemakers, buried the barrels in the vineyard to absorb the earth's energy over winter.
It was exciting to be wowed by a wine that confounds current thinking, something I also experienced through some impressive older sauvignons dusted off for the event. Sampling a surprisingly sprightly 30-year-old from Austria as well as some powerful older white Bordeaux proved that some sauvignons can be destined for a dignified and delicious old age.
But don't start squirrelling away your standard savvies, as only the very special will survive. There were still plenty of older examples at the event whose notes of green beans and asparagus made me remain convinced that the majority of sauvignons are still best drunk fresh and young.
Our homegrown sauvignon went down well at the Congress. "New Zealand led the development of the sauvignon blanc grape in the New World: it stormed and is still storming," said speaker and British Master of Wine, Joanna Locke.
It was the "sauvignon on steroids" Marlborough style that so impressed international palates, but is certainly not the only one New Zealand is capable of producing. However, many wine companies are still locked into this winning formula and are not taking the risks required to craft more individual examples.
I'm not suggesting our winemakers start burying their barrels, but a bit more experimentation will only add variety to a variety that has many more faces that we see here at home.
Decidedly different sauvignons
Textural Type
Auntsfield Long Cow Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $22.50
It's the texture of this soft but rich example that elevates it above so many sauvignons, while it still retains the classic Marlborough characters of fresh herb and tangy citrus along with more complex notes of spice and mineral.
From Wine Vault, Point Wines, Scenic Cellars.
Fabulous Flagship
Winegrowers of Ara Resolute Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $30
This impressive inaugural release of a flagship sauvignon from Winegrowers of Ara was sourced from a single block at the heart of the estate. With its intense and steely dry palate threaded with mineral, restrained white peach, nettle and lemon juice, it's a sauvignon blanc for riesling lovers and one that's likely to be longer-lived.
From Caro's.
Quest for Greatness
Easthope Winegrowers The Gatecrasher Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $59.90
With the goal to move away from stereotypical styles and create an ultra-premium sauvignon, Craggy Range winemaker Rod Easthope has treated this first white release from his own label with the detail usually reserved for icon reds. The result is a powerful textural wine with notes of flint, stone fruit and sage, plus spice and toastiness from its time in old barrels.
From Scenic Cellars.
