Bella, Ponsonby

Bella's slow-cooked pork belly. Picture / Babiche Martens

Herald rating: * * *

Old-timers cruise the Strip in tiny European cars or the Cayenne. There's something very Ponsonby about driving a Porsche SUV to the dairy to get your milk.

They point out historic sights. From the 90s, even earlier. Where Hudson and Halls performed. The shop that became Blitz that became Mount Coast that became ... who had it, Simon? Philip? Down on the corner, Dr Livingstone's became Fez and the Box and what's it called now ...

Around the millennium everything went downhill, down College Hill and swung a left onto Beaumont to the Viaduct. Bloody yachties, bloody Eric. Restaurant Mile became a windy ridge.

But, as a champion of the boulevard can crow after the 2006 Lewisham Awards, "Ponsonby has got its mojo back."

She'd know: Lindsay Sorrell was a gracious maitre d' in the street's heyday and now occupies herself with Mea Culpa, near the Franklin Rd lights. Where James Robertson of Agnes Curran won outstanding barista. Simon McGoram of ... ahem, Mea Culpa, won outstanding bartender and Mea Culpa itself outstanding cocktail experience. Chris Rupe (SPQR, Orchid) took the hospitality personality and restaurateur trophies, Hector Palmer was best maitre d' and Vicky Pethybridge of Prego outstanding waiter.

My companion tonight is Ani, who has waited and managed establishments up and down the Strip, London and metropoli between. We meet outside Bella. "Wasn't this Mainly Chairs?" I ask. "Before my time," she says.

Owner Rick Satherley shows us a table inside the rustic Italian dining room, where we contemplate Morgan Lonergan's simple Italian food, big flavours. Ani wants calamari and risotto. On a cold night I need comfort food, gnocchi and something meaty and roasty. And a sangiovese. "I remember the wine list being more extensive," says Ani. She might have got her Ts and Ps crossed. She is right, though there are interesting Italians, odd French and New Zealand suggestions with which we are not familiar. Alas, the big table has bought the last bottles: we settle for a hearty Australian 2001 Plantagenet shiraz.

They brought little rolls and oil, good move because Ani is well disposed towards places that bake bread. Her approval meter rarked up several points with salted and peppered calamari. My gnocchi was deliciously gorgonzola'd, less deliciously gluggy.

Ani picked at her main, porcini risotto. "I think," she said over emails next day, "I tend to be too critical on restaurants, having worked in so many. Being nice I'd say it was good, my calamari was most enjoyable but I can cook better risotto."

Wouldn't disagree. My slow-cooked pork belly was on the dry side and the mash was hidden under a peppercorn. Nice of them to look after my carb intake but it is a couple of decades too late. I enjoyed the suspicion of crackling.

The service started with a hiss and a bang but then the staff forgot about us. In their defence we were still chatting at midnight when everyone, understandably, had given up on us ordering anything more. But I was very polite to the cleaner as she waited to start work.

Bella
Address: 165 Ponsonby Rd
Phone: (09) 360 2656
Open: Dinner Mon-Sat
Cuisine: Italian
From the menu: Smoked duck breast on bruschetta, cos leaves, pancetta, poached quail egg, parmesan dressing $13; Prawn linguine tossed with garlic, chilli, tomato, lemon, rocket $14; Balsamic glazed chicken, yam croquettes, spring vegetables in garlic, thyme, lemon $25
Vino: From Marlborough to Montalcino, $38-$310
Vegetarian: Si, no problem, signora