Catering for skin sensitivity is a growth industry.
Seems we're coming over all super-sensitive much more easily these days. Skin sensitivities - everything from occasional breakouts and minor redness to dermatitis and psoriasis - are on the rise.
If we're under stress then we often don't eat well or get enough rest, so our system is likely to bring its protests to the surface. Then there's the so-called environmental aggressors, the likes of pollution and chemicals, which can cause reactions in some people.
Sometimes all skin needs is time to settle before you resume your usual routines, but often a whole new approach may yield pleasing results. Choosing products that are soap-free and aren't overly rich, perfumed or coloured might make quite a difference to cases of itching, stinging and reddened skin.
The more serious and persistent of these conditions needs medical management, but for less frequent flare-ups reconsider your self-care, skincare and sunscreen selection. Cut back on using too many active ingredients and harsh exfoliants.
Mineral powder makeup is usually better tolerated by women who find other makeup troublesome, but look for talc-free formulas. Mineral sunscreens (sometimes called "physical" sunscreens) are also worth trying if chemical sunscreens feel irritating on.
Dermalogica's Australasian trainer, Emma Hobson, says the rise in skin sensitivities isn't just a faddish Western phenomenon. It echoes the rise in food allergies. Some people are born with a predisposition to skin being reactive, especially those with a northern European heritage, but sensitised as distinct from genetically sensitive skin "doesn't discriminate" and can be found in people with olive and black skins. Sensitivities are also a growing issue in Asia, where Dobson has worked as a skin therapist.
As well as internal causes, triggers include pollution, processed diets, and even, chemicals from the likes of air fresheners.
Dobson says an obsession in recent years with applying overly active skincare to speed cell renewal hasn't helped some people. She calls this "the sting, bite, peel idea that you have to feel it for it to be working" and says too many people think that if a little of something is good then more must be better, but "it doesn't work that way".
Treating the skin aggressively causes trauma - with trauma comes inflammation and too much inflammation is linked with premature ageing. Inflammation is a nerve reaction to the skin feeling under attack, be it externally or from stress. She says if products are to be more than blandly soothing they need to work on the neuro-peptides which send messages to the cells when they feel invaded.
"If you're getting products that make you peel or sting, say no."
Dobson says controlled trauma from laser, peels and the use of alpha-hydroxy and glycolic acids should be watched to ensure skin is coping. It comes down to "the the choice of hydroxy acid, the choice of formula, with anti-inflammatories, hydrating properties and pH balance."
Drying soap is a bugbear, as are shave products laced with alcohol. "If you use a soap on your skin you should expect anything else you put on your skin will sting." The long-term effect of using alkaline soap sensitises skin and, even if it no longer reacts by getting red or stinging, it will have a comprised lipid barrier layer.
To combat sensitivities, you need products with calming and anti-bacterial agents. Camomile is an age-old remedy being used by a number of skincare companies, including Dermalogica. As well as avoiding soap and fragrance, Dobson recommends looking out for products that are acid balanced to the pH of the skin.
My advice if your skin is temporarily playing up is to switch to a mild regime. Replace soap with recognised alternatives for cleansing like Cetaphil, sold at chemists, check out mild washes, or some of the products we mention today. Don't assume all skincare products labelled natural or organic are the answer, they too can contain ingredients that may irritate, but often their straightforward composition can be easier on the complexion.
These days you'll find sensitive skin ranges from many brands. From the supermarket, new options include budget-priced washes from Health Basics, gentler shave products from Gillette and a low foam, organic shave gel from Primal Earth. In department stores and pharmacies you'll find the affordable likes of Innoxa's Skin Sensitive range and Avalon organics, through to options from prestige brands.
1. Dermalogica Ultra Calming Serum Concentrate $124.50
Dermalogica's new five-piece Ultra Calming range includes cleanser, mist, mask, this serum, and a barrier repair cream to use as a moisturiser and makeup base. I've found the cleanser particularly gentle, but am featuring the serum, which is rich in botanical extracts, because there aren't many serums around especially developed for sensitive skin. (The range arrives in Dermalogica salons from next week. For stockists ph 0800 433 762 or see dermalogica.co.nz)
2. Weleda Almond Soothing Cleansing Lotion range $21.90
For sensitive and unbalanced skin, this extra mild cleanser with almond and plum kernel oil gently whisks away dirt and makeup without disturbing skin's natural pH level. Almond oil, widely used in massage, melds well with the skin, making this a nice natural option from a good value, long-established brand. There's a moisturiser and mask and the option of sampling them all in a trial-sized pack for $16.90. (From selected health food stores and pharmacies, see weleda.co.nz)
3. Trilogy Sensitive Skin Very Gentle Calming Fluid $44.90
Trilogy introduced a three-part Sensitive Skin range this year, but recommends this fluid as a "party skin SOS solution" for anyone experiencing intermittent skin woes. It works to combat inflammation with calming camomile and calendula combined with moisturising plant oils. The fluid can be used as a light moisturiser or added into an existing regime as a soothing serum. I've used it on my young daughter to soothe some scaly bits and also successfully switched to the cleanser and moisturiser to soothe my own skin when it was going through a stressed patch. (Selected department stores, pharmacies and health stores or see trilogyproducts.com)
4. Dr Hauschka Med Ice Plant Body Care Lotion $59
Designed to support, balance and protect the skin, the star ingredient of this lotion is drawn from the moisturising ice plant. It can be used on all skin types, but like the companion cream it will be lapped up by dry, flaky or itchy skin. Like all Dr Hauschka products the ethos is natural. The German brand also has facial options for sensitive types including treatment ampoules and trial kits. (From Smith & Caughey's, selected Farmers and pharmacies and health food stores and therapists, ph toll free 0508 423 737 or see drhauschka.co.nz)
5. Clinique Redness Solutions Makeup SPF15 $62
Redness Solutions is a complete treatment skincare range that can be used by women with mild to moderate rosacea, or who are troubled by facial flushing. This liquid makeup also contains neutralising pearls with a yellow-green undertone to counteract redness, plus antioxidants and sunscreen. Also new to this range - and I know that this some women find a godsend - are the Instant Relief Mineral Pressed Powder, $86 and a Targeted Corrector stick, $43. (From Clinique counters.)
