Beauty: Scentsationally soothing

Take a deep breath, hold and relax. No, we're not talking yoga, but the intake of aroma. The way scent infuses itself into your inner-being and helps ease cares away. Whether you need de-stressing or energising, the influence of certain smells is well accepted. Lavender for sleepyheads, citrus for zing.

Aromatherapy is the purest expression of this sensation, whereby plant oils are used to bring both psychological and physical benefits. Essential oils can be applied topically (diluted into carrier oils for massage) or inhaled, most commonly via fragrance diffusers. It takes just seconds for smell to reach the brain and only a few minutes for essential oils to be absorbed into the bloodstream through the skin. Advocates of aromatherapy say this connection with certain smells and essences, often from plants long known for their healing qualities, brings manifold benefits. At the very least, it's pleasurable ... so take time out to smell the roses.

In Europe, aromatherapy has been long linked to well-being. A French chemist, Rene-Maurice Gattefosse, is credited with coining the term aromatherapy in 1928. Gattefosse became interested in the medicinal use of essential oils after being badly burned and plunging his arm into the nearest liquid, which just happened to be a lavender oil he was had been working with. His wound healed quickly and he went on to write Gattefosse's Aromatherapy, a book still in print today.

Many products claim to be aromatherapeutic, but in the true sense of the word, only those made without synthetic additives are. You can still enjoy the pleasure of fragrance (and we haven't been too purist about our selections) but to find a true aromatherapy product buy from specialist ranges. New Zealand's good natural skincare companies and pioneering brands such as The Aromatherapy Company are good places to start.

At Extracts, The Aromatherapy Centre, Fay Blomquist enjoys the educational aspect of her role as a retailer. The qualified pharmacist trained as an aromatherapist before opening up shop 12 years ago and says people are generally first attracted to aromatherapy because it smells good and later they become interested in its other aspects.

"When they get into it they realise the benefits."

This, she says, includes smell triggering the part of the brain that deals with memory and emotions.

"What I wanted was a place where the general public could come for professional advice on aromatherapy and a choice of products.

She recommends people explore aromatherapy with their own little burner and says the electrical hotplate versions avoid the need to use an open flame. "The common thing is oils for stress, for calming, for focussing, for studies and uplifting.

Advice is needed on how to apply them if using topically as they need to be diluted and how to best combine oils.

Blomquist sees aromatherapy as a complementary, rather than alternative, option to conventional treatments. She stocks a wide range of oils, medicinal items, and Australasian skincare, including the respected and hard-to-find Australian line Jurlique and several New Zealand ranges she rates, including Antipodes and Oasis.

Oils are sourced worldwide, with certain regions renowned for certain scents. She stocks a local lavender oil and manuka and kanuka and Australian ti-tree and eucalyptus. Tourists are particularly keen on buying the New Zealand products. Her favourites oils are neroli (orange blossom), lavender and frankincense, especially around Christmas. People often subconsciously respond best to the aroma with the properties they most need at the time, she says.

"It depends on mood."

THE TREND

With 10 books on aromatherapy to her name, Judith White is a passionate advocate of the use of natural plant extracts and a bit of a media star for the cause. She makes regular radio and television appearances overseas and speaks evangelistically about the benefits of using nature to nourish the body and soul. As she points out, at least 60 per cent of what we apply to our skin, soaks right in. "If you're going to put something on, make it count."

To her, that means certified organic natural ingredients. White is more than yet another person who has started a skincare range (though she's done that with the Australian-made bio-active JW Organics range found in selected spas and salons). She's on an international panel of experts looking into the spa industry generally. It's moving on from providing primarily pampering, relaxing experiences, she says, to a more holistic approach, with a fast-growing trend to natural and organic products, particularly those that deliver measurable results.

"Our skin is our little biosphere." Protecting and nourishing it is common sense. She maintains the skin's immune system (and thus its ability to resist accelerated ageing) is stimulated by the use of plant-derived vitamins and aromatherapeutic essential oils.

White views the skin as a living organ rather than a type that needs treating. Her facials are customised and results driven.

For JW stockists, ph. 0800 575 565.

THE TREATMENT

Bridget Black facial: This facial falls into the feels good, smells good, rather than highly active, facial category and sometimes that's just what the doctor ordered. Clients choose a fragrance line - I opt for refreshing lemon, lime and basil - and then enjoy being pampered with that. First up is a foot bath, then the facial, with buffing beads to exfoliate. Time is taken while masks are doing their thing for a lovely hand and foot massage. A nice touch at The Beauty Connection is an application of Bare Minerals foundation so I leave the salon with fresh, but not naked skin.

This Australian-made range isn't purely aromatherapeutic, but it is botanically based and delivers in the fragrance department. Bridget Black was launched at the Girls Day Out late last month and is available online, with retail supply just taking off. Being competitively priced and with stylish gift boxes, the Black Sheep children's range, and items such as candles in the signature fragrances (which include vanilla, orange and mimosa), it is likely to do as well as it has in Australia where it quickly spread from small beginnings in Perth to the eastern states. Bridget van Herk is the woman behind Bridget Black (she chose the name because it was snappy and suited the packaging). The chemist, who once worked for BHP, was determined to have a range that was as natural as possible, but she didn't want to get too bound up with what as a scientist she considers over-zealousness about some skincare additives such as certain preservatives, which she says there is no evidence against. She delivers a no-nonsense, nice product.

•Viva went to the Beauty Connection, Newmarket for our Bridget Black facial. It cost $85 for 1 hour. For more information on the range see www.bridgetblack.co.nz

1 Kevin Murphy Born Again Wash $44

This moisturising shampoo contains ylang ylang and tangerine oils. Stylist Murphy was one of the first in the mainstream hairdressing world to get into aromatherapy. (From The Department Store.)

2 Weleda Pomegranate Creamy Body Wash $19.95

Cleans the skin and soothes the senses with a balancing and harmonising aroma. (From health food stores and pharmacies, for stockists see www.weleda.co.nz)

3 Dr Hauschka Light Rose Day Cream

Suitable for summer, a lighter version of Dr Hauschka's renowned nourishing rose cream. (From department and health and natural food stores and selected pharmacies. For stockists see www.drhauschka.co.nz or call toll free 0508 423 737.)

4 Jo Malone Red Roses Bath Oil $125

Hot water helps release delicious aromas from rose essential oils in this luxury item. A joy to soak in. (From Jo Malone, Chancery. See www.jomalone.co.nz or ph 0800 566 7467.)

5 Antipodes Nirvana Body Wash $38

Heavenly smells for the shower.

(From Smith & Caughey's and selected pharmacies and health stores.)

6 A*Kin Cellular Brightening Facial Mist $29.90

Part of a lavender-infused active botanical skincare range from Australia. (From Extracts, Westfield Downtown. For other stockists ph. 0800 168 169)