Deeper makeup shades are right for now.
We may be tempting you with a spring fashion preview this week, but stick with winter makeup colours for a while yet, as they work better with what we're currently wearing than the lighter shades you'll slip into later.
Hold off on the peaches and pastels until the sun shows them in a better light. The first of these spring colour collections are beginning to roll out on cosmetics counters, but we recommend you strike out in sophisticated rather than soft shades during the darker days.
If you do feel the need for something new, then try a bolder lipstick. They'll continue to be around in hot hues for summer.
The most requested school ball makeup at the M.A.C counter this season has been the smoky eyes and nude lips favoured by the likes of Kim Kardashian, but that's what reality TV does to teenagers. Everyone else should now move on. Update with a little more grown-up glamour.
Fresh looking skin without too much foundation is given interest with sculpting just underneath cheekbones and highlighting above, rather than just blush on the apples. Don't over-powder, just apply it where needed.
Our picks for eyes are smoky blues and mauves or the easier, neutral gold and olive tones, with lips in any shade of red from clear and sheer to just-bitten berry, or the safer bronzey or brownish-pink choices that take nude into more flattering, warmer territory. When spring arrives, just knock back the intensity of the darker eye shades and substitute washes of colour, while softening up lips and cheeks if you don't fancy tangerine and fuchsia for fun.
TRUE BLUE
Cooler tones are perfect for adding a little drama. Subtly done, they're sophisticated and modern. For eyes, try mauves by day and midnight blues by night or if that's too bold, then use a shot of silver with a little black eyeliner. Lips can run the gamut from mauve to deep plum or pretty much any of the reds. A deeper nude also works, but enliven it with a light gloss and keep cheeks subdued.
1. Sothys eye palette in Regard Nouveau $110
Grey and midnight blue are teamed with a highlighter allowing you to create a flattering French version of a smoky eye. Dark blue is also a good choice for eyeliner if you want a break from black. (Salon stockists ph 0800 Sothys or see sothys.co.nz)
2. Clarins Cotton Flower Eye Quartet & Liner Palette $85
A denim blue eyeliner is included in this palette of four shadows that can go on softly or smoulder up.
3. Rouge Dior Ara Red $58
I've loved Dior reds since I lashed out on one as a teenager, the colour is as strong as ever but the texture much more moisturising these days.
4. Chanel Nail Colour in Paradox $46
Grey violet plum shade with a shot effect.
5. Chanel Powder Blush in Rose Temptation $93
Chanel has been making this silky baked blush for 30 years, but keeps it fresh with new shades including this delicate one which was used on the runway for the autumn-winter collection. A touch of luxury comes from the wild rose scent it sweeps across the cheeks.
6. M.A.C Opulash mascara in Bad, Bad, Black $34
Pump up the volume with this black-as-black mascara's super-fat brush.
7. Youngblood Pressed Mineral Eyeshadow Quad in Vintage
These mauves are my idea of a great neutral for blue, grey or lighter green eyes. The wine tones blend well and come in a well-designed palette with a decent mirror from this mineral makeup brand. (Ph 0800 555 630.)
8. Lancome La Touche Pro in Medium $70
This two-tone concealer kit was developed by global artistic director Aaron De Mey, who realised from his work backstage that women need custom-blended concealer to match different facial zones. A great complexion, or a little disguising of flaws, is essential if you're drawing the eye with bold makeup colours. This creamy concealer glides on easily with a double-ended mini-brush.
GOLD STANDARD
Warm autumnal shades are always strong sellers in eye palettes, the trick is to include gold, not just browns, to avoid dullness. Extend the impact with olive green or teal eyeliner. Lips are best not too barely there, but avoid the dowdier autumnal shades, instead amping them up with bronzey finishes, or add softness with brownish-pinks or delicate nectarines. Red will work here too, it energises neutral eye shades and gives the face focus. If your lips are subdued don't neglect a little colour in the cheeks, otherwise gently does it.
9. Chanel Quadra Eye Shadow in Enigma $117
This versatile palette nicely combines cool and warm tones with shadowy violet, metallic grey, taupe and pink flecked with gold.
10. Clarins Joli Rouge in Red Terra $51
This long-wearing moisturising lipstick formula delivers just the right warm red shade for winter.
* If red attracts yet terrifies you, try using it in a tinted lip conditioner or gloss for a sheer statement.
11. Napoleon Auto Pilot Pre foundation Skin Primer $47.50
A catch cry of Napoleon Perdis is "Not to prime is a crime." Try his base smoothing Auto Pilot and you'll be reciting the mantra.
12. Stila Long Wear Lip Colour in In The Nude $57
A creamy wind-up crayon of long lasting colour.
13. Lancome L'Absolu Creme de Brillance in Rose Boudoir $58
Lancome's cream glosses really do bridge the gap between gloss and lipstick in a way that will satisfy those who've previously only liked lipstick. I'm a big fan. The colour lasts so you can go it alone, or use on top of lipstick for a moist freshness without sticky shine. This one is a sophisticated dusky brownish pink.
14. L'Oreal Chrome Intensity eyeshadow in Timeless Green $19.99
This strong olive shade adds depth, but blends down nicely. Try Cacao for a brown-gold option.
15. M.A.C Nail Lacquer in Rock Star $26
Bronzey gold alternative shade that sings rather than shouts.
16. Bobbi Brown Metallic Long-Wear Cream Shadow In Pink Oyster $55
The forgiving cream base from Bobbi Brown now comes with metallic shimmer. Blend for a sheer effect, or use as a base for more colour.
17. Smashbox Brow Tech To Go $43
A groomed brow finishes your look and this is a portable way to achieve it. Use the angled, waterproof pencil at one end to fill and define, and flip for the clear gel to provide soft hold.
18. Shiseido Luminizing Satin Eye colour $42
This pale gold will prove a go-to shade that you can wear alone for a little lift or combine with other colours as a highlighter on the central lid area.
Stockists: Brand counters in selected department stores and pharmacies unless otherwise specified. L'Oreal also from supermarkets and Clarins also from selected beauty salons. M.A.C from Chancery, St Lukes and Smith & Caughey's.
