Fresh new fragrances for men.
There's nothing wrong with beer one day and champagne the next, but you're best to go cold turkey rather than drink the ready mixes. It's the same with scent: if you wouldn't drink an RTD, then don't wear an undistinguished perfume.
There's plenty out there, be they bland and generic
or loud and trend-driven. Yet, the best men's scents have always appealed to both sexes for their sure notes of warmth and freshness. Whether your taste tends to light and breezy or traditionally masculine, look for a scent with quality and personality. Like a well-mixed drink each ingredient should offer something to, and blend with, the whole, with the balance changing as it is savoured.
By all means don't wear scent if you're not comfortable with it, but you'll be missing out on a pleasurable sensation and the possibility of a favourable reaction. Once you've sniffed out what sort of fragrance you're drawn to, remember it needs to not only smell good in the bottle but also once it has settled on your skin.
If you're keen to experiment, a lighter, and cheaper way to layer up is to incorporate fragrance into your choice of aftershave, balm, splash or shower gel. Aftershaves are declining in sales, replaced by eau de toilette and men's skincare, but they are an option for someone who doesn't like the idea of buying perfume and they have toning and soothing qualities on the face. (Shiseido has just brought out its distinctive Zen for Men in an aftershave lotion).
Smith & Caughey's fragrance manager, Liz Pink, says trend-wise for men it is "a mixed bag". Favourites in store include Dolce & Gabbana's The One, the new Bleu de Chanel, and Paco Rabanne's One Million, all quite different. The latter fragrance comes in a lie-flat bottle that looks like a gold ingot, perhaps partly explaining its allure.
"Men are starting to get more adventurous," says Pink. They are generally drawn more to the label than bottle design and are often very brand loyal."
At Farmers, celebrity scents sell well, with hip-hop stars being among the biggest names on bottles. Popular brands such as Calvin Klein and Jean Paul Gaultier have pulling power across the market, with both having new summer scent editions out now.
World's Francis Hooper has a passion for fine fragrances and tracks down classic and unusual offerings for his World Beauty stores, such as the Acqua di Parma Colonia, a crisp, mid-century favourite. "Fragrance is moving back to its roots in true luxury," he says, "from the mass-produced, back to the personal touch and from celebrity back to the iconic."
* For men who don't like to wear fragrance, there's the option of introducing scent - and atmosphere - into the home with candles or fragrance diffusers. There's plenty out there that aren't girly, including those with citrus and green scents, light and airy options, earthy aromas or heady, spicy tobacco or leather mixes. Check out World Beauty, Isabel Harris, the Department Store, Jo Malone and selected gift and department stores.
1. Jo Malone Vetyver Cologne from $110
The unisex Vetyver cologne is softly spicy, with a citrusy start and nutmeg notes. It's not too intense, so is an ideal introduction to vetiver, a traditional and sometimes pungent perfume ingredient, long used in quality men's fragrances such as Guerlain's Vetiver and modern revivals by Tom Ford and Serge Lutens.
2. Michael Kors Michael for Men eau de toilette from $130
Warm, masculine, sophisticated and safe, this would move comfortably from boardroom to bar. Michael Kors, the American designer and Project Runway judge, says he designed it to suit himself and, like his clothes, the mix is classic with a twist. Patchouli combines with a soft sprinkling of herbs and spices and a woody finish. (From selected department stores).
3. Gucci by Gucci Sport eau de toilette from $112
This offers a fresh, lighter twist typical of sports-style scents for fans of Gucci pour Homme, but it still retains the warmth of the original. Wear one for weekend and one for work and you'll reek of Italian elan. Available in an aftershave lotion also.
4. X Rocawear Diamond Celebration eau de toilette from $95
Shawn "Jay-Z" Carter marks the 10th anniversary of his Rocawear brand with X, which like 9IX comes in a distinctive, brushed metal-look case. Often labelled Mr Beyonce, the hip-hop artist and producer is a formidable lifestyle entrepreneur. He shows his individuality in this mix of lapsang souchong tea, eucalyptus, fruits and musk. (Farmers, Life pharmacies and selected stores.)
5. Hugo Boss Boss Bottled Night eau de toilette from $104
The latest from the Boss stable, Bottled Night is designed to complement the big selling Boss Bottled. Whether men want to have vanilla-based day and musky night scents I don't know, but with Bottled Night they also get aftershave lotion and balm options.
The eau de toilette is a strong mix of aromatic and woody ingredients in a doorstopper bottle.
6. Nasomatto Silver Musk $299
Crafted by Alessandro Gualtieri who spent two decades working on perfumes for some of fashion's biggest names before going it alone with his his boutique Nasomatto brand.
He believes fragrance should be inspiring and original, and this gentle musk with fig leaf is one of his six very different aromas. (From World Beauty Stores, worldbrand.co.nz)
7. Sean John I Am King eau de toilette from $80
For the man with a giant-sized ego, better known Diddy, as I Am King is surely the signature scent. It's hard to think of many men who could compete for real with Diddy's Bond-style advertising imagery and playboy lifestyle - think yachts, helicopters, Monte Carlo's casino and a top model on each arm - but as the rapper-turned-style mogul says the scent is "for men who dream big and want to live large".
That said, it's surprisingly subtle rather than a standout, with cheeky notes of Kir Royale and lime pie. (Priced from $80 at Farmers and selected other stores.)
8. Calvin Klein CK Free $154
Pleasant, but unremarkable for what is described as a woody aromatic with a seemingly complex list of ingredients ranging from absinthe to starfruit, coffee and patchouli. Fragrance light, as is Calvin Klein's Eternity Aqua, a recent reinvention of the more rounded 20-year-old Eternity for men into an aquatic, woody scent.
9. Prada Amber Per Homme $159
Following the release of Prada L'Ambree for women comes the Italian design house's next modern oriental scent, just for men. As elegant as a Prada suit, it starts off sharp and citrusy, but quickly tailors itself into a soapy softness that is easy to wear. Miuccia Prada had a personal hand in the creation, saying she tried to imagine what she would like to wear in a gentleman's shoes.
10. D.S. & Durga Cowboy Grass $168
An American musician (D.S) and an architect (Durga) joined forces three years ago to make handmade colognes. They reference the classics, but with a modern sensibility. This combines wild grass, herbs, vetiver and sage. There's also a Cowgirl Grass. (From Simon James at the Department Store, Takapuna.)
11. Intelligent Nutrients Attune Certified Organic Aroma $75
Mint and florals combine with vetiver and vanilla in this little vial.
The idea is that the "multi-functional aroma" of essential oils can be used as a fragrance, to add shine to hair, to perfume massage oil and to fight jet lag, all the while stimulating and calming the spirit. (Available from the Marr Lab, at the Department Store.)
12. Jo Malone Dark Amber & Ginger Lily Home Candle $130
Men are regular buyers of this handsome candle poured into dark glass. It brings a touch of the exotic tropics into any interior.
13. Tommy eau de toilette $105
Set sail for the stores together to pick up Tommy Hilfiger's summer version of his signature Tommy scent, with its very on-trend nautical look.
(There's also a Tommy Girl version available.) Light as an ocean breeze. (Exclusive to Farmers.)
14. L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme limited edition eau de toilette $122
This summer bright bottle in turquoise (buy the lilac version for her) houses the normally minimalist look 15-year-old favourite fragrance, which is given a fruity limited edition twist.
It is citrusy, thanks to yuzu and mandarin, with a touch of cardamom and sage. Base notes include vetiver and amber.
Stockists: Department stores and selected pharmacies unless otherwise specified.
