Is SPF15 enough protection in our natural skincare products?
Two pioneering natural skincare companies say the SPF15 sunscreens they use are just fine - if users show all round sun sense. We asked the founders of Evolu and Antipodes to answer our questions on whether they are offering a good enough alternative.
Users of naturally-based products seem to be stuck with SPF15 protection levels, why is this?
Antipodes' Elizabeth Barbalich: It is very difficult to achieve higher than 15 using natural compounds, however SPF15 is absolutely the highest "time" you should expose your skin to the sun. In Australasia, you shouldn't be going out for longer than this. (For example, if you burn in five minutes, then wearing an SPF15 you can go out in direct sun for 75 minutes, which is more than adequate on a daily basis.)
Evolu's Kati Kasza: We believe most natural skincare users choose it because they prefer botanically sourced ingredients. Unfortunately, as yet, there's no such thing as an effective botanical sun filter. There are mineral-based versions, including zinc and titanium dioxide, but they're not botanical. So there's a paradox there. To have SPF30 in a natural product requires a trade-off which many people are unwilling to make. More mineral or chemical sun filters must be added, so then it begins feeling, looking and acting less and less like a natural formula.
Is SPF15 enough if applied properly?
Kasza: Our view is yes, if reapplied often enough. SPF15 filters approximately 92 per cent of harmful UV rays, SPF30 about 94 per cent - so their barrier effectiveness is not that different. What differs is how long the protection lasts. But we think, given there are so many other factors which influence protection levels, that SPF15 is adequate in a daily moisturiser when used as recommended.
Barbalich: Our Immortal SPF15 gives very high protection - up to 95 per cent of UVA and UVB rays, while providing enough light for your skin to produce vitamin D - it's no different from an SPF50.
What are you avoiding with SPF15 that you would be applying with a higher SPF?
Barbalich: Higher SPFs contain loads of chemicals negating the point of using the product. Toxins, can cause free radical damage.
Kasza: The lower factors require sun filter ingredients in lower quantity. Whether you feel happier having less of these chemicals or minerals on your skin depends on your point of view. Chemical sun filters are not by definition unsafe, and they do defend against skin damage and melanoma. By the same token, minerals like titanium dioxide may be effective at sun protection, but can be allergenic for many people.
We use a system commonly known by the short name of avobenzone. It's one of the globally accepted systems proven to be effective and safe to use. It has a "barrier" action, using large molecules that sit on the skin and reflect the UV back. Most importantly it's a broad-spectrum system - it's essential to protect against both with your sunscreen of choice.
Some mineral based products are SPF30, are these not natural?
Barbalich: Mostly no.
Kasza: Zinc and titanium are naturally occurring elements, but it's going a bit far to call them natural in our view. Most people equate natural in skincare with "botanical", and rightly so. Nano-technology compounds are being promoted as a sun filter, but science's verdict on nano-ingredient safety is still out. We don't think the fact that nano zinc goes on invisible justifies the potential risks.
Are you working on higher SPFs?
Kasza: No. We are comfortable with what we offer now. We add sun filters to some of our moisturisers as an enhancement. Even some protection in one's daily skincare routine is worthwhile. But we don't claim to be making or marketing "sunblock". That's a different kind of product.
Barbalich: We don't believe it [higher SPF] is better. We are certified SPF15 to meet strict Australian and New Zealand regulations.
Final comments?
Barbalich: Think about the time you are spending in the sun; in our part of the world we need less sun exposure as our ozone layer is thin and the sun is very harsh. Consumers need to start thinking about skincare from this factor. In other parts of the world, where women have different skin types, and the sun is less harsh, then longer periods can be spent in the sun.
Kasza: Sun care should be all about balance. Too much sun is bad, but so is too little. We need our vitamin D.
