Beauty: Crowning glory

Hairstyles on the catwalk. Photo / Supplied

If you're ready to turn heads, but have no idea what direction to take yours, then listen in on our conversation with some of Auckland's leading stylists. Each has their own views on what will wear well this winter, but all say expect a return to more naturally flowing hair.

Easy elegance was a stand-out look at the recent round of autumn-winter 2010 international fashion shows and was much in evidence in the long flowing styles and soft up-dos seen on the stars at a very unedgy Oscars last week.

This style trend seems sure to be with us for a while, for who doesn't want the appearance of healthy, shiny, free-flowing hair? Natural looking doesn't mean do nothing, so read on for some individual takes on how to add polish to the seemingly uncontrived. And if you prefer something a bit sharper, there's also some shorter, rockier, strongly coloured styles on the horizon.

Our trend trackers include Air New Zealand Fashion Week favourites Greg Murrell from Ryder salon, Stephen Marr senior stylist Lauren Gunn and Grant Bettjeman from Bettjemans, plus Mana Dave from Blaze, Servilles Mission Bay creative director Hayley Pullyn and Steve Morgan from Morgan & Morgan.

New Zealanders who worked backstage at the New York shows also share their insights with Viva in our story on the next page.

What are the key winter hair look(s) you're excited about?

Greg Murrell: I'm loving creating movement in hair which is neither a curl or a wave, rather a loose gentle movement. I slide tongs in the hair and keep them moving. I'm also enjoying using temporary hair colour to create fun pastel or bright looks.

Lauren Gunn: Frizz-free long hair is definitely on my mind; after the rigours of a Kiwi summer, shiny healthy hair is now top of the list. Long hair is still a key trend with the up-do hitting the streets big time this winter ranging from high 60s chignons to sleek wet-look ponytails or topknots and beehives for the brave. Fringes are back, this time they are going long and heavy and wide with not a blunt edge to be seen. Think along the lines of Patti Smith and 60s icon Anna Karina.

Mana Dave: There's definitely a strong texture story for winter (wave, curl, frizz, crimping). One of the tools we're really excited about is the mini crimpers, which we used extensively for Sera Lily's winter collection. They are a quick and easy way to create texture and volume and an amazing foundation that you can either braid or style up into a quick "at home" up-do.

Grant Bettjeman: I look at European influences in all sorts of media. Trend experts are talking about the "Rock and Folk" trends. The "Folk" being softer and casual loose shaggy cuts with natural movement. Perfect for the low-maintenance girl who doesn't like to fuss. The 'Rock' look is the opposite, strong shapes, edges and colours. Undercuts will feature this winter with the longer tops coiffed back. Short urchin cuts with pointed fringes or spiky texture.

Steve Morgan: As with fashion, there's a strong 90s influence showing through. Disconnected haircuts of all lengths. Wave and movement is still big!

Hayley Pullyn: Long, luscious locks and short 'n' sexy cuts. I always get inspired by Hollywood and films. They always play an integral part in the influence of hair directions.

What/who is influencing your styling now?

Mana Dave: The military trend that we're seeing in fashion is a big theme for me. I love what Balmain did recently by combining very strong military details with softer distressed textures. We've created quite strong geometric shapes combined with softer elements whether in the texture of the hair through wave and curl or the look of the colour with a "grown out" muted palette.

Steve Morgan: I was in Tokyo with Schwarzkopf a week ago for the "Essential Looks" collection release. My favourite look was "Boudoir": Soft and sexy, Sophia Loren, Scarlett Johannson, red lipsticks, provocative lingerie, underwear and outerwear, D&G and Marc Jacobs.

Lauren Gunn: Two of my favourite new indie girls are Alexa Chung and Alison Mosshart of The Dead Weather. They have effortless cool nailed and I love the choppy volume of their hair.

Greg Ryder: I think that after the recent recession, everybody is enjoying a little extra lightness. This comes across in fashion as a little more playfulness and frivolity. It's time to have fun again. This is definitely affecting my work.

What colours are freshest and who can wear them?

Hayley Pullyn: Pastel blondes and rich browns. Anyone can wear them as long as you have a good hairstylist who can suggest correctly for you.

Grant Bettjeman: If the stronger look of the "Rock" trend appeals the colours for you are strong browns, and rich nutty chocolates. Block blondes will be big for the brave this season. If the more casual "Folk" trend is yours the soft, natural caramels, mochas, creams and cappuccino colours will fit well.

Steve Morgan: There are three key trends for winter; brights (reds, coppers, pinks) pre-lightened blondes with pastel toners (grey, pink, mauve & blue) and contrasting panels of a strong rich colour with one or two contrasting (yet harmonious) strategically placed to create emphasis. Anyone can wear them if the core influences are adapted to suit the client, hair texture and haircut.

Mana Dave: There's a strong trend for muted and pastel tones. Speak with your colourist/stylist so the trend can be tailored to suit your complexion (by placement of panels/tones etc).

Lauren Gunn: For short and cropped hair, either end of the spectrum works, pale chalky blondes or inky blacks. Winter colour is richer and more chromatic in longer styles, the deep smudgy regrowth look with glossy honey blonde is a great way to get a glow back into hair for winter. Brunettes should be taking depth to a whole new level this season; combining cool and warm tones together is a great trick for avoiding that nasty overdyed look.

What's your current favourite styling product(s)?

Lauren Gunn: Every bathroom shelf should have a tube of gel and a nourishing shine serum - my personal favourites are Sebastian Gel Forte and O+M Frizzy Logic. I used close to 20 cans of mousse creating the looks we did for AW10 at Fashion Week, it's a must have for pumping up the volume.

Mana Dave: Aerate. It's a really cool product that Redken has just launched. It feels like a velvety cream but acts like a mousse so you get mega-body with condition and softness.

Hayley Pullyn: L'Oreal Texture Expert - smooth mousse Velours Volupte.

Greg Ryder: Kms California Hairstay Style Boost is an innovative new product. If you have ever wished your favourite product was a little stronger, try layering in Style Boost on top of the other product for extra support.

Steve Morgan: Schwarzkopf Osis Dust It. I call it Fairy Dust. It's the most incredible dry texturiser, ideal to carry in your handbag.

The pony club

Send a stylist to a fashion capital and they come home inspired to experiment. The clients of two New Zealanders who worked at New York Fashion Week last month needn't worry about whether runway can work for every day, with both stylists determined naturally beautiful hair is the trend they want to translate.

Louise Pilkington, whose Servilles Ponsonby salon is a popular morning blowdry stop for the likes of Pieter Stewart and Sara Tetro, says she will be advising clients to adopt a more relaxed look for winter. "I will be moving away from hair that looks perfectly groomed and into styles that are a lot more understated and naturally beautiful. I will be suggesting to clients who would usually have full, perfect blow-waves that they go with a more lived-in, natural style."

Pilkington was in New York with fellow Redken artistic team member Richard Kavanagh, who carried on to Milan and Paris. She styled at Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and more and said what stood out was the prevalence of natural yet expensive-looking hair. "This is hair that is simple, natural and sexy - the kind that doesn't look as though you have spent a lot of time on it and is simply beautiful. Thick, healthy and well-looked after hair was seen a lot, often tucked into the collars of the clothes which looked great, so cool."

To get a long natural look at home, she says having the right tools and styling products is key. A favourite product is Redken Woolshake to add a lived-in look.

Iain Smith of ME salons in Ponsonby and Takapuna styled model of the moment Karlie Kloss for Willow. His impressions across the shows were of trends that were natural in both look and texture. "Not over-curly, not super-straight. Elements of glamour but no bold structure - except for fringes."

He plans to replicate the Willow side-parted low pony tail at home and noticed similar looks showed up at DKNY and in a softer, messier version at Michael Kors. "Vera Wang had a different spin by doing a centre part, a sixties crown pulled back into a pony tail."

To achieve the Willow look, Smith says side-part the hair then use fingers to pull into a tie at the base of the nape on the same side as the parting. Mousse the pony tail (he uses ghd Maximise Mousse), then gently blow dry and spray smooth. Stroke the ends with ghds and sit it forward.