Beauty: Creme de la creme

La Prairie Cellular Gold Illusion Line Filler. Photo / Supplied

Would you splurge $1725 on a face cream? Eight Canterbury women lined up to do so, forcing calls for extra supplies from Australia to keep up with demand also shown in Auckland and Wellington. This was for the New Zealand arrival of one super premium product, where advance interest took La Prairie by surprise.

La Mer also reports a devoted clientele, with new launches much anticipated. To prep staff for the next one, the American company's regional training manager Asia/Pacific, Parker Steel, was in Auckland last week for staff training sessions.

Wooing clients with service beyond the ordinary is very much expected for these brands. Both say the recession hasn't dented core sales; on the contrary, women who can afford liquid gold on their skin want to slather it on - perhaps a case of trying to keep the base world at bay. And talk of precious metals isn't just about the bank balances of those who buy these expensive creams; the ingredients list of both brands reads like a jewellery order. There's

platinum, diamond dust and other precious gemstones. They're said to be included for the reflectivity they bring to cosseted skin.

Clearly those who "invest" in these luxury creams believe they make a difference, in the way certain drivers of European cars wouldn't be seen dead in a Japanese import despite AA ratings showing budget brands have much going for them.

Luxury brands, naturally, point to client satisfaction and the scientific research devoted to their ranges. They speak of how technologies they have developed filter down to cheaper products or are simply too expensive or specialised to be replicated.

Steel says the proof is in the pottle. "What really matters to us is what the client says."

The smooth-skinned Canadian, who has worked in the cosmetics industry for 20-odd years, six of them with La Mer, says he first used the eye balm before becoming a convert and then a representative for the skincare. "I couldn't believe it was as good as they said. It truly is, because it changes the skin."

Both La Mer and La Prairie have the obligatory backstory. La Mer is a product of a Nasa rocket scientist, Dr Max Huber, who came up with a healing cream after suffering chemical burns. The aerospace physicist used sea kelp extracts, minerals and vitamins, among other ingredients, to make an anti-inflammatory "miracle broth" that is the foundation of the range.

There are just 35 products in all, with several more in development, a tiny selection compared with most cosmetic companies.

"We're not newness driven," says Steel, who explains that the company's focus is developing the best skincare rather than a plethora of products such as the seasonal cosmetics collections of other brands.

There's a foundation, but it's promoted as a skin treatment.

La Mer, it's said, can prove - relatively - good value, as products are multi-tasking, allowing one cream to be used sparingly both day and night. Prices top $900 for the premium concentrate and exclusive products (kept off-counter) can fetch $3000-$4000.

At the heart of the range is Creme de la Mer ($485), available in four different vitamin-enriched formulations. The original texture is almost cold-cream thick, but lotion, gel, and oil control versions contain the same "miracle broth" in lighter formulas allowing clients to pick on feel as much as skin type. This year the company launched a moisturising sunscreen, a body refiner and a facial masque and it is now building a discreet buzz about the introduction next year of a more specifically anti-ageing product aimed at improved skin tone and firmness.

"Great skin is important at every age," says Steel.

La Prairie's New Zealand manager, Melinda Jones, explains that her brand's customers expect the best and are wooed assiduously. "They are pampered through La Prairie's luxury facials, mailed samples of the new products continuously".

"The service given to these clients has to be the best in the industry."

La Prairie has its origins in a secretive Swiss clinic in Montreux where for more than half a century celebrities have disappeared for a while only to emerge looking so much fresher in the face. Skincare is a component, with the clinic a pioneer in cellular, anti-ageing therapy, launching a Cellular Skin Treatment System in 1978. In 1982, Laboratories La Prairie parted company with the clinic, but has continued to develop luxury skincare products, aimed at "helping women manage their skin's ageing process".

Pricing is unashamedly premium and packaging is suitably luxe. The $1725 cream has an applicator spatula decorated with a Swarovski crystal and a jar echoing a diamond with a lasered logo. A Caviar Collection was launched in 1987, with a 50ml Caviar Creme for the face now costing $660. The Platinum range uses the most precious metal on earth.

The brief for La Prairie's Silver Rain to the perfumer was "make perfume with the costliest ingredients in the world, no expense spared".

The 50ml eau de parfum retails for $295.

Both La Mer and La Prairie describe their core customers, many of whom are from overseas, as 35-plus and in the top-tier income brackets, but say interest is growing among younger professional women - and men. One of La Mer's best Auckland customers is said to be a man. The founder's scientific background apparently particularly appeals to men.

Men have also shown an interest in La Prairie's new Advanced Marine Biology Range, which has the light feel they like in skincare.

The range is fronted by the granddaughter of ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau and contributions from sales go to the Ocean Futures Society that Celine Cousteau founded. La Mer also contributes to an ocean preservation charity, Oceana, the force behind World Ocean Day, and its counters are eye-catchers with their tropical fish displays.

Both companies see themselves set apart from others. La Prairie's Jones explains: "Super-premium are products that are in a class of their own, have the technology to back up the claims, are priced according to some of the ingredients in the creams and the amount of research that is behind the products."

The likes of Estee Lauder, Lancome, Chanel, and Dior are seen as sitting under the prestige banner. "La Prairie is considered by many to be the ultimate luxury skin care brand."

For La Mer, Steel says research is at the centre of the company's philosophy. The same team has been in place for 15 years, since founder Dr Huber died. Being relatively small, the company could be responsive to customer feedback and it relied on highly trained counter staff to deliver this. Steel recommends facials and Creme de la Mer as the ideal introduction to the brand.

"The sum of 'miracle broth' is greater than the parts." This, I'm told, is partly due to something called sonar chemistry, whereby music is played to the broth. "It does sound a bit hocus-pocus," says Steel, who earnestly explains that sound and light is unleashed during the broth's micro-fermentation process.

I'm picturing whale wails over the algal stew.

He says: "It increases the nutrient value."

1 La Mer Hydrating Facial $530

These individually wrapped masques come in a box of five. Stockists: Smith & Caughey's, Queen St and Newmarket, Kirkcaldie and Stains, Wellington.

2 La Prairie Cellular Cream Platinum Rare, 50ml, $1725

Contains platinum particles, peptides and light reflecting pigments. Richlisters should apply to Smith & Caughey, Auckland; Kircaldie and Stains, Wellington; and Ballantyne's, Christchurch.

3 La Mer The Body Creme $485

Silky hydration described as like a "seaweed wrap in a jar".

4 La Prairie Cellular Treatment Gold Illusion Line Filler $260

A re-texturising, radiance-enhancing makeup primer.