Beauty: Counter culture

Jo Malone beauty consultant Raewyn Flay gives a complimentary 10 minute hand and arm massage to a client. Photo / Babiche Martens

Post-Christmas, our bank balances tend to be as strained as our patience when it comes to shopping. Sales are signalling that a new season of styles and colours isn't that far away, but while the sun shines it's hard enough just shrugging off summer and frocking up for work.

This, though, is the perfect time to tap into some retail therapy of a useful kind, and it needn't cost you a penny. The shops are quieter, the seasonal pressure to buy is off, so step out and seek some guidance on how to make the most of what is on offer, starting with your nearest beauty counter.

For free, or a fee of around $30-$50 redeemable on purchase, you can get a skin analysis or makeover session to make sure you're spending your money on the right products or to give you an insight into what else is available.

It's best to book a time in advance at department stores or larger pharmacies, but often, if the counter isn't busy they will be able to fit you in on the spot. (If you're hoping for instant attention avoid seeking it at lunchtimes or on late shopping nights, but if you're prepared to wander off for a coffee, a slot may soon open up.)

If the idea of perching on a high stool, seen by all and sundry terrifies you, then ask if there's a private area, some bigger stores have them. Generally, though, you'll be sitting in the store, but with your back to the aisles you'll soon focus on the mirror not the madding crowd.

Writing about beauty, I've had a fair few makeovers, and am surprised how often there is a certain sameness about them. That's not always a bad thing, consultants want you to look pretty rather than possessed, but I do sometimes wish they wouldn't automatically reach for rose-pink lipstick and sandy eye shadows; much as they might suit me, I find them so blah. It helps, therefore, to say what you want to achieve from a session so the consultants know where to concentrate their efforts. If you want a better foundation, a decent night cream for your skin type, or to learn how to put on eye makeup, don't just book in for a general makeover, be specific.

If you don't learn something new, then you've been short-changed, even if you didn't pass over a cent! Every decent consultation should give you insight, the trick is working out how to incorporate what you've learned into your beauty regime.

It's a good idea to get product recommendations in writing. Most consultants will happily complete a colour chart for you and you can refer back to it, including checking if you have something similar at home. If your friends rave about your makeover and, in the cold hard light of day, you like your new look, then you're on to a good thing.

But do remember if you're unsure, you're under no obligation to buy. Simply say thank you, and that you'd like to go away and decide what your purchase priorities should be.

Two free consultations I've enjoyed lately were very different examples of the benefits you can get from a little time investment. One was about skincare and the other an indulgent and demystifying introduction to a luxury range.

I fronted up at the Clinique counter in Smith & Caughey's Queen St store for a skin analysis on their whizzy magnifying machine, which sadly fully illuminates all pore and pigmentation problems. It's fascinating, but really does underline why sun protection is your best beauty investment. The counter is at the front of the store, and seems very public, but its clever boxy design is enclosing and allows you to concentrate on the consultant. I liked the collaborative approach to determining my skin type and skincare needs and, most importantly, preferences. When I said I liked a simple approach, without a plethora of products, I felt listened to and the final Redness Solutions formula made good sense, dispensing with a number of items that are standard in many ranges' lists of "basics." With relatively trouble-free skin, I don't like layering on too many creams and I like multi-purpose products. Although my consultation was about skincare, a cosmetic item was prescribed to address the slight redness issues we identified. This Instant Relief Mineral Powder has proved a boon.

At the gloriously fragrant Jo Malone store in The Chancery I enjoyed a complimentary 10-minute hand and arm massage. This was an opportunity, not just for a relaxing treat, but to learn how the English perfume-maker combines scents for her signature layering. A body lotion was massaged in and a spritz of cologne followed. A store stylist happily talked me through the mostly floral-inspired range. Beautifully packaged for giving in cream boxes trimmed with black grosgrain ribbon, Jo Malone is undoubtedly a luxury purchase, but viewed from the inside, the store isn't at all intimidating. You can also be sneaky and buy gift boxes of sets of candles or soaps and split them up for more affordable offerings.

Nix or near to

Here's a few other ideas on getting the most from a consultation:

* Try something new, a different brand or a different colour. Explain what you usually wear, but say you want fresh ideas.

* Look out for advertised makeover sessions, they're often accompanied by good gift-with-purchase offers. Yvest St Laurent has a $25 one focussing on eyes next month. Elizabeth Arden also has a February event and its usual approach is fairly typical in that it offers short, free skincare consultations. Booked makeovers for the likes of school balls, weddings and social events are charged as a service.

* For a fashion forward makeup for a big night out, book into a M.A.C counter or the Smashbox concept store in Ponsonby Rd. M.A.C do magic false lashes; you pay for them, but it's worth it to have them properly applied.

* If you're after lessons in a natural look, but underpinned by some real nous in how to apply it, makeup artist brand Bobbi Brown is ideal, consultants will even help you find your perfect lip shade.

* Estee Lauder offers the All Eyes on You service to help determine your eye shape and how best to apply flattering eye makeup to suit. You'll also get tips on brows, lashes and concealers.

* Mass market brands such as Revlon have a big range of products and because their consultants deal with so many women they have a "real world" view of what works for everyday.

* If you favour a particular brand and are a regular shopper, ask to be put on a counter's VIP list so you can be kept informed of upcoming events. Some of these are not open to the wider public.

* To get maximum value from a consultation, avoid taking one in the middle of a brand's big seasonal colour collection push as you'll end up being prescribed whatever is being promoted. You want the full range of options.

* Don't be shy about asking for a sample or two, they're handy for the travel bag.

* Clinique at Smith & Caughey (09) 3774770. Jo Malone (09) 309 4418.