Backstage Beauty at Cybèle 2009

A model has her makeup applied backstage at Cybele. Photo / Nicole Saunders

Victorian ladies just emerging from a period in mourning: what a charming way to kick off the first show of the first day of Air New Zealand Fashion Week. But Cybèle Wiren has always worked with high concept, purely thought out stories that immediately have you longing for purity and clarity in your own dressing.

Last year it was sculptural hair, painterly, flowing pieces, this year she has more theatre.

Makeup artist Amber D from M.A.C is calm in the back stage bustle. It's only 9.40am and already most of the girls are prepped in the makeup room, their faces reflecting the freshness of a Victorian maiden just stepped in from a windy walk on the moors.

And while no Victorian mama would ever condone the lavish use of blush - the strongest colour on the face, a mix of M.A.C's Full Fuchsia, Devil (truly, almost orange) and Pink Swoon is swept from cheek to temple on the palest, barest, freshest skin.

A tiny dab of opal pigment for sweet shimmer, a matt lip (Pink Shock cream colour mixed with white Lipmix for a just kissed-but-don't-tell-mama look).

What makes it work is a completely naked eye - no mascara, no nothing - with a light sweep of M.A.C's not-yet-released Chromagraphic pencil in a flesh tone around the waterline of the eyes for a slight sparkle.

The hair takes a little bit longer: Stephen Marr creative director Lauren Gunn has taken the severity and solemnity of a Victorian maiden's modest curls on neck and cheek and twisted them into something super, super surreal - Dali meets the Brönte sisters.

A lethal mix of Sebastian Liquid Steel and Liquid Gloss is painted on the hair to create a sleek, glossy crown (just hope those girls are not racing to another show any time soon), tiny ponytails are twisted (and even sewn) into elegant loops around the base of the skull and up the head.

Pull on the locket and lace gloves, and step out into the world.

Take home tip

Be brave, ditch the mascara and focus on a warm dramatic cheek (bland blush won't do) to really make your eyes sparkle. Look out for new skin-toned eye pencils to widen the eye.