Back to beauty school: Help for those teen queens

Teens should establish a skincare routine that serves for life. Photo / Getty Images

Teenagers are hypersensitive enough about their appearance. And yet just at the time when they least want to feel different, their skin changes dramatically. Excess oil and breakouts can wreck a teen's self-esteem, but a few simple skin-clearing steps can not only improve confidence, they will also help a teen establish a skincare routine that serves for life.

Do: Get serious about cleansing day and night. Dirty skin isn't the cause of acne but a build up of sebum and dead skin cells provide the perfect environment for bacteria. A gentle soap-free cleanser and clean flannel are perfect. A good one is Nellie Tier's Tier for Teens Wash ($29).

Don't: Over-cleanse. Zealously removing all traces of oil leaves the skin parched. Its response is to produce even more oil.

Do: Use products that contain anti-acne ingredients. (These don't have to be products formulated especially for teens.) Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are ingredients getting the gold stars.

Don't: Use heavy hair waxes and creams, which can cause breakouts around the hairline. Stick to lighter styling products.

Do: Get medical help if breakouts don't respond to gentle treatment. Serious acne needs expert attention.

Don't: Deviate too often. Routines thrive on consistency - and time. Don't give up after a week.

Do: Exfoliate. But be careful. The world of exfoliants has no level playing field. Avoid scrubs, which can be harsh and overstimulating, in favour of a product containing salicylic acid, like Biore's Triple Action Toner ($13.95).

Don't: Ignore sunscreen. The skin can't heal if it also has to contend with daily sun damage.

Do: Use blotting papers to remove excess oil (and shininess) caused by overactive hormones. But first ensure they are free of common irritants like menthol or alcohol.

Don't: Be unsympathetic. A pimple may look like a pimple to you but to a teenager it's a life-altering tragedy. Aesop's Control ($30) can help put things back into perspective by soothing and medicating blemish-prone skin.

Do: Keep it streamlined. Cleanse, exfoliate, disinfect (try Dermalogica's MediBac Overnight Clearing Gel, $81) and protect with sunscreen. If the skin needs it, use a lightweight moisturiser.

Read the label: Squalane

What to look for: Stick with us because this can get a little confusing ... squalane is different to squalene. Both are oils, but squalane (with an "a") is the saturated version, making it more stable, with a far superior shelf life. Both are used in beauty products, but squalane (from plants, usually olives) is the better oil.

How it works: Squalane is a highly effective moisturiser, helping to keep the skin hydrated, plump and soft. It's full of replenishing fatty acids and antioxidants and absorbs quickly. Non-comedogenic (it doesn't cause breakouts) and gentle, it is perfect for general skin care and products aimed more specifically at the eyes and lips.

Where to find it: Often, but not exclusively, used in natural products, it is widely available. Get it in moisturiser: NZ Spa Wild Daisy Body Lotion ($22.50); foundation, Elizabeth Arden Pure Finish Mineral Tinted Moisturiser ($72); and Jurlique Herbal Recovery Antioxidant Face Oil ($85).