The Bridgman, Dominion Rd's newest gastropub. Photo/Babiche Martens
The Bridgman, Dominion Rd's newest gastropub. Photo/Babiche Martens
A 1912 Dominion Rd landmark has had a tasty - and textured - makeover, reports restaurant critic Kim Knight.
In their own words: "Thoughtfully curated food, drinks and cocktails with our fresh, modern take on a traditional gastropub."
First impressions: If swinging from the chandeliers is your thing, The Bridgmanhas a chandelier for you. Contemporary luxe meets olde worlde opulence in a refit that is impressive, comfortable and gives a really lovely nod to the building's heritage. I've visited at least two previous hospo incarnations at this address (The Dominion and GPK) and this one wins my vote for best aesthetics.
In the kitchen: Smart decision-making extends to the kitchen, which, reportedly, hired Des Harris (Clooney, The Hunting Lodge, Tantalus Estate, etc) as a consultant chef. No corners have been cut and texture gets equal billing with taste. A decadent puddle of lamb, for example, is scattered with toasted buckwheat and clean, fresh coriander. Lesser pubs simply would not have bothered.
On the floor: Great menu knowledge, water before we'd even asked and speedy delivery of that second round of drinks (a crucial test of service capacity).
The neighbourhood: In 1912, readers of The Weekly Graphic and New Zealand Mail were treated to photographs of J.W. Bridgman and Son's "fine new and up-to-date building" situated on the corner of Dominion Rd and Valley Rd, aka "one of Auckland's rising business centres". Did that bold claim go the distance? In my opinion, The Bridgman is the second best thing to happen to this stretch of road (Geoff's Emporium is, obviously, the best).
The menu: Mandarin oil, ponzu, feijoa ketchup - even the beef fat fries come with a smoked habanero mayo. Think pub food in a fancy frock. You're walking distance to Eden Park, and looking at a menu that recognises it's possible to like rugby AND a plant-based burger.
Lamb ribs, from the menu at The Bridgman on Auckland's Dominion Rd. Photo/Babiche Martens
Best bite #1: Fat equals flavour and nothing confirms this theorem more than the proliferation of lamb ribs on restaurant menus across Auckland. Lord knows why we spent decades frenching the bones when, with a little love and a lot of cooking, they can be transformed into sinful succulence. In short: Order the lamb ribs.
Best bite #2: In which a bog-standard vegetarian option goes to a day spa and emerges its true, best self - shiny, plump and dripping in cheese. Ricotta gnudi are supposed to be light, fluffy clouds but I'm totally okay with something more akin to a cheese sauce dumpling that comes with both button and fresh shiitake mushrooms and drifts of pecorino.
The jury's still out: James got the sirloin steak (amazing) and fries (less amazing). By this point, The Bridgman had become a victim of its own success. When you set the bar so high, less-than-crispy chips are noticeable.
On the side: Enter the other chip. Halloumi fries are squidgy and squeaky and, if you dip them in enough feijoa ketchup, the acidy cut-through will definitely make you feel better about going to the pub and mostly ordering cheese.
Dining spaces at The Bridgman include the alcove (above), an outdoor terrace and the main bar. Photo/Babiche Martens
Dessert: Options included an aged gouda with dried apricot jam and rye shortbread but (see above and also a bit further above that) I couldn't. Regular readers might observe this is my second recent round of tiramisu. The Bridgman's was more refined than Gina's - the latter oozed, the former was comprehensively soaked. Favourite? Like children and grandparents and bridesmaids, I loved them all equally.
Perfect for: Sunday sessions or weeknight after-work drinks with those discerning friends who want burrata with their beer and a chandelier above their champenoise. Go to The Bridgman before a big game and have a good time, but for a great time, ask to see the menu.
The first thing you'll notice about the drinks menu at The Bridgman is that it perfectly matches the dining menu in terms of length and breadth. Someone very smart has put this list together, opting to not dole out pages and pages of liquid refreshments to choose from. They've built a base of six sparklers, 10 whites, two rosés, a dozen reds, a dozen tap beers, 10 bottled beers and a dozen cocktails to kick things off — or cap things off —no matter. I love the little illustration next to each cocktail of the shape of the glass it'll come in. Your Clover Club is served in a coupé, your Cherry Sour in an old fashioned or rocks glass, while your vodka and gin concoctions arrive in a copa. It's excellent that all their rosés, almost all their white wines and half of their red wines are available by the glass, none of which are over $15. Definitely try a $10 glass of Georges Road Block 3 Waipara Riesling, a glass of Windrush Organic Marlborough Sauvignon ($12) or a $14 goblet of Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Syrah. The Unico Zelo Halcyon Days Nero d'Avola ($12) is a personal favourite too. Tiramisu tickling your fancy? Who needs a dessert wine when there's Behemoth Triple Chocolate Stout on the drinks list. Bridgman, you've hit the bullseye.
