The raucous Italian stalwart has shifted to Mt Eden. Restaurant reviewer Kim Knight relives her 30s at Gina's.
In their own words: "We serve fabulous Italian food with exuberant service in the genuine style that is generous Italian hospitality. You want quiet, darling? Then you'll have to go elsewhere."
First impressions: Is it a bar? Is it a restaurant? Is it a garlic-scented Tardis? The further you venture into the new Mt Eden Gina's, the more space there is to sit. A narrow bar opens into a bigger dining room that opens into a heated, covered outdoor area, which opens into even more garden seating. Beyond that? The possibilities appear, literally, endless (or Epsom).
On the floor: Circa 2005 and I am a shy South Islander trying to impress my Auckland colleagues. They take me to Gina's on Symonds St, where I can't hear a word over the flirting. The waiters (they are all men) bellow "Ciao, Bella" and my workmates show a dangerously impressive capacity for wine. Later, I'm told the attractively wanton waitstaff are not even Italian. According to my informant, they're all from Brazil. I feel duped. Was this just a vicious Auckland suburban legend promulgated by a rival restaurateur? The only thing I know for sure is that, in my hungover 30s, there really was no place like Gina's. A decade-and-a-half later, and it is 6.15pm on a Wednesday. The waitstaff (as many women as men) are friendly and efficient and they all wear shirts. They are very happy to turn on an extra heater for the old lady at the corner table for two. Tap water is fine, thanks.
The menu: I suspect the legendary Gina's raucousness is just one $50-a-head set menu and a pre-booked shirt-free entertainer away but, if you're a midweek diner with a hankering for a pasta dinner, go straight to the small print. A $20 "classic" bowl (penne arrabiata, spaghetti bolognese, etc) is a lovely way to feed the segue from work to home.