Art Ducko, Torbay

Denver leg: The venison is a long way from Colorado.

(Herald rating: * * * *)

The last time we tried to take someone to Art Ducko we rang well in advance for a weekend table. No joy. Fully booked.

So we were not surprised when we arranged a midweek date to find the place buzzing. They must be doing something right.

The setting is delightful, of course, looking out to Waiake Beach, a little East Coast Bays gem, palm-fringed with a little tor in the bay and boats bobbing at anchor. But this view isn't a trump card on a winter's night unless you are very early indeed and obviously some family groups do get in pretty smartly, finishing their meals as we were arriving. Then the restaurant itself is physically pleasing, two large rooms with well-spaced, wooden furniture and the clutter of duck-themed knick-knacks everywhere.

But these assets can't explain how this establishment keeps rolling on, year after year.

It must be somewhere around 10 years ago when we first ate there and the act has remained much the same.

We are not talking cutting-edge food. There is nothing to alarm the traditionalists and the menu has an air of familiarity that borders on the nostalgic.

I started with one of the day's specials, a seafood chowder. This was full of the bits and pieces that make a good chowder and it was satisfying, if a little bland for my taste. Our other first course, of a brie and tomato tart was prettily presented and tasty.

The special of the day provided one of our mains, a simple pan-fried snapper with a lemon and white wine sauce, basic stuff but none the worse for that. I went for the Denver leg of venison, again with a traditional hearty sauce, and a decent feed it was too although my preference is for the meat to be slightly more rare.

The side serving of vegetables were similarly hearty: carrots, broccoli and red cabbage and a generous helping of cheese-topped boulangere potatoes. These were included in the price of the mains and here we come to the secret of Art Ducko's long run. It is terrific value for money. Unpretentious food but decently cooked and lots of it.

So much that only a sense of duty pushed us on to even considering the dessert menu. I had thought the sorbet selection might be the lightest option until I saw one being carted to a neighbouring teenager and the quantity was daunting. We shared a carmalised (sic) creme brulee with mango and lemon Grasse (also sic) which led to speculation of what an uncaramelised creme brulee might be. But, as before, it was a perfectly adequate specimen.

The wine list is of the supermarket variety and we had an acceptable Saints Gisborne chardonnay. But in keeping with the dependable, good value neighbourhood restaurant tone of Art Ducko the majority of the customers obviously take advantage of its BYOW status. Those customers span the range with couples, families with ankle biters and special occasion groups all in evidence.

The service has always depended on an array of young female staff who have been well instructed in the restaurant routine and they are efficient, if occasionally lacking in the polish you might find in the city. But like the rest of the place, they do the job and there's no doubt they keep the customers happy.

WHERE: Art Ducko, 1/936 Beach Rd, Torbay (09) 473 7878
OUR MEAL: Our meal. $114 for two first courses, two mains and one dessert, one bottle of wine.
OUR WINES: Saints Gisborne chardonnay $31 a bottle