Anglesea Grill, Ponsonby

By CARROLL DU CHATEAU for canvas

It seemed a good idea to take a local to eat on Ponsonby Rd, where the restaurants stand shoulder to shoulder and change names, chefs and reputations as often as the rest of us have, well, hot dinners. The amazing thing is, Oliver had never been to the Anglesea Grill, which is on his very corner.

So the three of us set off one stormy Tuesday night. The signs were excellent from the start. The Anglesea was having a slow night, meaning we scored a table on P Rd.

Our waitress was exceedingly attentive, the A4 single-spaced menu offered just about every fish we could think of, cooked in just about any way we could think of. The whole effect is of a fast-paced seafood place that changes the menu when the boats come in.

And here a word of warning. This is not the kind of fine-dining where a chef balances a meal for you. Most fish can be cooked in several different ways: chargrilled; steamed; panko-crumbed; pan fried; even battered. Meals come with rice, fries or new potatoes. Side sauces include tartare, aiole, chilli aiole, spicy Thai or Mexican salsa fresca. Entrees are large and even the special "panko" crumbed dishes, which I was assured are especially light, are rich as hell.

All of which means you get to design your own meal, which we suggest you tackle with care.

By the time I arrived, a loaf of hot, crisp sourdough bread was half-demolished and our bottle of Craggy Range Chardonnay ($55) already ordered. The wine was dead right for the meal to follow - fragrant, flavoursome and heavy, without a hint of the flint I have grown to loathe in so many sauvignon blancs.

Our entrees were huge. Brian's Tempura Squid ($14.50) would have fed all of us and he loved the unnecessary aioli, ditto Oliver's Snapper Caesar ($14.50). My Waikanae Crab Cakes ($9.75) also packed the calories. They tasted really crabby (hard to achieve with so-subtle crab meat) and strangely buttery.

Our main courses came quickly, as they tend to on a Tuesday. Oliver found his Pan-fried Terakahi ($21.50) way above the usual standard. Brian's Seared Tuna ($24.50) was fine. However my Crumbed Tiger Prawns ($29.75) were so rich, the plain steamed rice and bowl of steamed asparagus ($7.75) were more than welcome.

In the interests of my liver, I could not attempt the Vanilla Bean Creme Brulee and instead "made do" with the Vanilla Bean Icecream with home-made hazelnut brittle ($6.50). Ollie, however, was more than up to the Chocolate Mousse ($8) which he scooped up with murmurs of delight before talking the maitre d' into providing a second ramekin to take home to Robyn. Meanwhile Brian, who can usually be relied on at this stage of the meal, simply passed.

On reflection, despite its relatively high prices, the Anglesea Grill is truly a grill - where customers put their own meals together. On the other hand, the fish is fresh, the wine list excellent and service impeccable. There were even Christmas lilies in the loo.

Cost: Dinner for three plus wine, $202.75

Ambience: Cosy, elegant, whizzy without being noisy.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.