Ammonia-free dye: Colour me happy

Auckland salon owner Belinda Watson is evangelic about the new ammonia-free dye coming to a salon near you. It's called Inoa and it's from L'Oreal, the biggest player in the salon market, which claims it as a major breakthrough.

"It's like flying first class compared with economy," says Watson, a 25-year industry veteran, who has been trialling the product for the company and preaching its benefits to other hairdressers. "The process is more comfortable and enjoyable," she says.

After undergoing an Inoa colour myself at her boutique Biba salon in Birkenhead Point, I agree it's much more pleasant than standard colouring. (Ammonia has always reminded me of Russian public toilets I encountered, which were doused in foul-smelling chemicals).

With Inoa, my scalp didn't experience the usual taut, dry, after-dye feeling, which in some sensitive skins results in real irritation. The colour is true and my hair feels healthy.

Watson says what she loves about Inoa (which stands for "innovation, no ammonia") is that it delivers a great range of "beautiful, believable colour". It also means she and her staff no longer have to inhale fumes. She is now mixing colours beside her clients rather than out the back.

Ammonia is an alkaline chemical that has long been used to help open the hair cuticle, thus allowing colour to penetrate deep into the hair shaft and so last longer. It is used in combination with peroxide as a developer.

Inoa isn't the first ammonia-free permanent colour, but it's set to have the biggest industry reach and has certainly created a buzz among hairdressers both here and overseas - most of whom are only just starting to use it.

Many have long been concerned with how hair products can affect sensitive skin, but they've mostly maintained that dyes without ammonia just aren't as effective and are best in semi-permanent formulas.

L'Oreal claims its patented Oil Delivery System is the point of difference in being both ammonia-free, but truly penetrative.

Watson, one of the few who is up to repeat visits on clients, says they're loving the results over time. She says the use of a mineral oil in the formula helps condition hair, meaning repeated use of Inoa actually improves hair.

"After 25 years, it's what I've been waiting for. I can have what's best for me and what's best for my clients."

Inoa also seems to cut down on staining - the gel-like formula was applied to me without a barrier cream and it rinsed off easily after a brief scalp massage to begin it emulsifying, which is a slight change in usage hairdressers need to adapt to.

The three-part formula contains an oil-based gel, mixed with a colourant and a hair-smoothing developer.

It can lighten up to three shades, darken and colour greys, and comes in 50 set shades with vast mix options. L'Oreal researchers are working on high-lift blondes for down the track.

"This is the most significant development in professional hair colour since the invention of modern hair colour by chemist [and L'Oreal founder] Eugene Schueller 100 years ago," says L'Oreal Professionnel general manager Rachel Neill.

Time will tell, but so far it's smelling like roses.

* Inoa is available in selected L'Oreal salons. To find out more see inoa.co.nz.