KEY POINTS:
The reconstruction of New Zealand fashion is in high-gear and coming to a suburban shop near you next season - whether you like your seams slashed, shirts sequinned and sleeves hitched or not.
Trend-spotters at day two of Air New Zealand Fashion Week were in for some surprises yesterday as even mainstream labels tried out some innovative construction techniques.
The usual expectations of garment design were unpicked in favour of some free-form cutting that challenged accepted perceptions of what works.
It seems it depends on who is doing the cutting, but the unexpected twist of the scissors made a change from the endless retro references of fashion show in recent seasons.
We were expecting to see more of the overtly futuristic or sporty looks that peppered overseas runways, or perhaps some of the 1940s tailored shapes to come, but New Zealand is doing things its own way.
Futurism is restricted to a few metallic leggings, and the casual look translates into slouchy anoraks. Waists often went west. The shows went their own way too, with many designers adding their own touches with original staging. Some were cringe-worthy.
The evening's spectacular was Trelise Cooper's no-holds barred razzle dazzle show, including a nod to Dior in the staging. There was sequinned shimmer and bugle beads aplenty, but also easy elegance in black silk embroidered evening coats, and simple shifts in vibrant hues.
In the separate Cooper collection, casual wear took on a touch of glitz. For those who don't get Trelise, the real key to her reign as Queen of New Zealand fashion is in the wearable shapes and the joyful jolts of colour. Once again, the crowd loved it.
The day was otherwise a virtual homage to the original masters of deconstruction Downunder, Nom*D. The night after their 21st anniversary show, a new pretender to the throne was thrown up in the unlikely form of a young AUT graduate, Jaeha-Alex Kim.
Even Petrena Miller, a Wellingtonian best known for having her conservative ranges fronted by former Miss Universe Lorraine Downes, came over all wonky round the edges, with a show of a new younger range @emgirl.
Alyssa Serdoun, another who favours classic tailoring, went into the same new territory. Strangely, Annah Stretton, the mainstream designer most fond of asymmetric rough edges that sell well at retail, toned down in a Chinese-themed show led off by Geeling Ng in a cunningly crafted fan dress. Another cultural diversion was Style Pasifika, more about feel good than fashion, but a nice start to the day.
Elsewhere, only Chelsea Thorpe showed much restraint. Her work featured in a group show with Jaeha and Salasai, both of whom took 80s themes in new directions.
There were plenty of other trends on display and this reconstructed look won't be worn everywhere, but it's going to be hard to ignore next winter.
OUR PICKS
Ana Macdonald, Viva fashion editor:
With Monday night's wonderfully styled Nom*D show and the glitzy glamour of Yvonne Bennetti rounding off a great first day we welcomed some young blood on day two. The highlight was the dreamy Alice-in-Wonderland feel of Chelsea Thorpe's pretty, diaphanous shift dresses and cropped leather jackets with billowy puffed sleeves. In contrast, Jaeha's layering, deconstruction and drawstrings were not too dissimilar to the likes of Nom*D.
Alice Rycroft, Canvas fashion editor:
Nom*D and Yvonne Bennetti were both excellent. Both took their design philosophies to a new level.
Newcomer Jaeha-Alex Kim's label blew me away with his first Fashion Week show. He showed an assured collection brimming with ideas, often many on the same garment - but everything looked right. He never overcooked it. His style resembles a futuristic, sexed-up Nom*D.
