KEY POINTS:
It wasn't so long ago that New Zealand was happy to knock back homegrown burgundies and sauternes - much to the horreur of vignerons in the French regions responsible for the true versions of these classics. But now it's our turn to get territorial, as new legislation impels New Zealand to define its wine districts and protect its own distinctive wine styles.
Because its character is shaped by where its grapes are grown, wine is one product for which provenance really matters. This is a concept that has been long appreciated in the great vineyards of Europe, which defend themselves against impostor plonk trying to pass itself off as being from a better neighbourhood.
But many New World labels from outside Europe give higher status to the grape variety rather than location. Grape varieties undeniably influence a wine's taste. They're also certainly easier to grasp than France's myriad regional appellations.
Varietal labelling was pioneered by Australia, where many mainstream brands were multi-regional blends with little affinity to any one place. But in the premium and diverse winegrowing land of New Zealand, region is generally more clearly reflected in our wines, most of which carry some kind of regional designation. However, where each region starts and finishes has not yet been mapped.
Next year, when the New Zealand Geographical Indications Act is implemented, it's hoped that our regions will be well on the way to reaching a consensus on their borders and that we won't see the boundary barneys that blighted the implementation of defined regions in Australia. There, disputes were dragged through the courts, and one battle in the King Valley was only recently resolved after raging for a decade.
The initial signs are promising - Martinborough agreed on its limits years ago, and Central Otago looks likely to stick to current administrative boundaries.
But trouble could come in Marlborough, where there are big corporate interests and much money to be made or lost depending on where lines are drawn. The geographical indications law requires a quality, reputation or other characteristic essentially attributable to the place in question. Marlborough's success has led to vineyards spreading far from its historic heartland; what constitutes the marrow of Marlborough now is open to debate.
Some say it's too early for New Zealand to be delineating its regions. In Europe, they say, boundaries have developed over centuries.
But as long as the system is flexible enough to grow, sensible boundaries are set, and the denominations are kept simple, geographical indications should be a good thing for a country that has built its success on its strong regional styles.
It will also help hammer home that, just as burgundy and sauternes can be made only in those places in France, something like Marlborough sauvignon can never be made in Moldova or Masterton.
REGIONAL SPECIALTIES
Sherwood Estate Clearwater Vineyards Waipara Riesling 2005 $23
Waipara is one of New Zealand's best regions for riesling, of which this intense and honeyed off-dry specimen is a stunner. Stone fruits flow around the classic Waipara spine of juicy lime cordial acidity over river stones that lead to a lingering finish.
From www.sherwood.co.nz
Lawson's Dry Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $23.50
Marlborough has an international reputation for producing pungent and vibrantly fruited sauvignon blancs. This wonderfully zingy example surfs through its waves of herbs, cut grass, mineral and melon on a crisp grapefruit acidity.
From Glengarry.
Margrain River's Edge Martinborough Pinot Noir 2006 $28
From the cradle of New Zealand pinot noir comes this stylish second wine from Martinborough's Margrain. All pinot barrels rated good to bloody marvellous last year, so some great stuff was sent down to become River's Edge Pinot that year, resulting in a seriously good pinot with brooding layers of dark savoury plummy fruit and licorice lifted by a juicy acidity.
From www.margrainvineyard.co.nz
