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Home / Lifestyle

A wardrobe for all seasons

By Cathrin Schaer
4 Nov, 2007 04:00 PM6 mins to read

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Workshop shirt dress

Workshop shirt dress

KEY POINTS:

And the forecast is for, well, odd weather really. Warm in the winter, too cold in the summer, or maybe just torrential rain, gusting winds and floods when you least expect them. And, if we're to believe everything we are being told about climate change, then the fashion industry is in for a shake-up too. After all, in a world with one long season that's neither really hot nor really cold, how can the traditional model of creating new collections every six months work?

When the question was recently put to Beppe Modenese, known as the founding father of Milan Fashion Week, by journalists from the New York Times he replied with a blunt quote: "The whole fashion system will have to change.

"You can't have everyone showing four times a year to present the same thing. People are not prepared to invest in clothes that, from one season to the other, use the same fabrics at the same weight. The fashion system must adapt to the reality that there is no strong difference between summer and winter anymore."

And it's not like this isn't a bit of a problem for fashion retailers already. In New Zealand when clothes arrive in local shops they're usually sitting on the shelves for anywhere from four to 16 weeks. After that they become the subject of discounts, and then finally all-out, end-of-season sales. This varies from store to store - for instance, high-end designers will have their collections in-store for around three months before they begin to discount prices, and depending on the garment, such as ballgowns or suits, some items may never be discounted.

Chain stores, however, will start marking the price down after only two or three weeks in order to move stock as rapidly as possible through the stores.

And the problems start when the seasons don't change on schedule. As in, if there are summer frocks in the stores, but it's still freezing outside.

By the time the weather does change, the labels will have had to sell off stock cheaply to make room for the next lot of clothes - good for the customer, not so good for business.

Australian-based fashion forecaster Tony Bannister, who runs a trend prediction agency called Scout, reckons that the way around this is for trans-seasonal garments to look a lot like the winter or summer trends, but made in lighter fabrics.

In some ways the chain stores here and overseas are already doing this. And higher end labels are doing it when they add high-summer or resort ranges to their two annual collections.

Possibly the most pressing problem is what you are going to wear when you don't know what the weather is planning.

In the North Island, our days seem to start out one way and end up another. So if one of the biggest movements in future fashion is trans-seasonal looks, should you be investing in another coat or jacket at all, discounted or not? Or should you simply be frolicking around in your new cotton sundress and gladiator sandals? And, if indeed you are in the mood to shop, what can you get that won't be a waste of time and money once summer arrives properly?

The following suggestions should see you through this current spate of squally weather and into summer; some of it will even last until next winter.

FABRICS

Layering is the obvious way to survive the weather crazies. Happily, fashion trends are playing along. Looking around the shops there are two main ways to layer.

Firstly there are a lot of beautiful sheer tops around. Your best bets are the more constructed pieces - as in, they have some structure to them, or a special cut, so they look flattering when you wear a long-sleeved top underneath.

And in February you can step out in these with a cotton singlet underneath or a strappy sunfrock. Invest in the right kind of sheer - like something from Cybele or Zambesi - and you'll also be able to glam this little number up for the evening or dress it down with jeans. And sheer looks are a trend that stretch right into next winter because the other big move in layering is wearing different textures together.

The other, warmer option is to go for one of the loose jersey or cotton pieces that also seem to be dominating store shelves. These are slightly more difficult to wear as they may slip off one shoulder and can look more casual or even a little sculptural. But you will get that 80s, floppy-arty thing going on which is another trend that is going the distance.

PRINTS

If you decide to inject a little bit of summer into your wardrobe early, floral prints are also going to be around for a while. It could be popular culture's current emphasis on all things green and natural but it was hard to find a Fashion Week runway that didn't have a blossom or two on it.

The direct rip-offs have yet to arrive in the chain stores - look out for blurry, arty florals the way Balenciaga and Prada just did them in Paris and Milan - but there are plenty of pretty floral and tropical-style prints around anyway. Layer them up with warmer cardigans and trousers and you will still be wearing them next summer.

COLOURS

What the fashion editors call jewel brights are doing big business in local boutiques. And adding a gem of colour - such shades as canary yellow, burnt orange, pretty forest green, 70s mustard or bright midnight blue are very now - will have you suited up for sunshine. But, if you choose the colour in something like a cute three-quarter sleeve cardigan, you'll be okay if it rains too. Because they're so flattering and upbeat, these colours should also work until the end of summer.

SHAPES

One look on a downward slide is the empire line smock dress. It's been around for a few seasons now and has pretty much done its dash. However, because it is such a flattering shape and so easy to wear - you can layer it with trousers or wear it short and sultry with heels - there are some similar contenders waiting in fashions wings.

These are just shorter versions of the good old smock. Bib-front shirts and longer smock tops are just as easy to wear but they're not going to make the trend-conscious shopper feel dated. The other big rivals to the smock are the shirt dress and even the well-cut shift dress. These are cool sophisticates you can wear over trousers or jeans, or with a cardigan and stockings when it's cooler, then on their own when it warms up.

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