A turkey-free Christmas for Auckland chefs

Connie Clarkson. Picture / Carolyn Robertson

Probably about now those responsible for Christmas lunch are likely to be wishing they had hooked up with a chef. Then it would be their job to be stuck in the kitchen, whipping up gastronomical wonders in a flash. We asked four chefs what they'll be eating on the big day - and it's all good news for turkeys.

CONNIE CLARKSON

Connie Clarkson is a foodie guru with all the right credentials. She is a former director of Auckland Cooking Academy, ex owner of the French Cafe, published author, and one-time TV chef with a passion for Asian flavours.

These days, she is a regular guest on Radio Live and marketing communications manager at Auckland's Hyatt Regency. Clarkson owns four couches, two peace lilies, no cats and has a preference for hosting festivities on Christmas Eve.

Suitably, Clarkson is debunking traditional Christmas fare for delectable bowls of chilli shrimp and garlic crays, platters of tender beans and hot smoked salmon with wasabi mayo.

Last year, she set up an Eastern-style noodle bar and guests created dishes from a spread of delectables. Come Christmas Day, this devotee of fine food and fabulous wine will be splayed out on her squishy couch devouring lots of coffee, congee and leftovers late into the day.

What are you planning on making for Christmas?

We do "Orphans' Christmas" on Christmas Eve. This began in my first year as restaurateur and single mum. We were orphans together; my friends and my daughter's friends who were far from home. In those days, Christmas Eve lunch was our last service at the restaurant and we were on a roll, so it was natural to continue. This way, my girls could have Christmas brunch with their Dad and their respective boyfriend/partners' families. In our composite family we make things as easy as possible for everyone to have a good time so the food is always simple. I subscribe to the theory of "single-handed entertaining", which means preparing as much as possible before guests arrive. Also on this menu is chicken liver pate and crusty French bread, and loads of Clevedon oysters in the shell with balsamic and soy. Dessert is lashings of fresh strawberries, cherries, mangoes and sweetened thickened cream. Then I have a big sleep.

What food items would you put on your Christmas list?

French champagne, tins of duck confit and failing that, another peace lily.

Any tips for making our lives easier in the kitchen on Christmas day?

Do not battle the traffic at last minute - stock up ahead of time or have it delivered. Do not think you need to do it all yourself. If they want to eat, they need to work for it - and they might enjoy it too. Lots of easy food with little preparation - this is where you rely totally on the flavour and freshness of the best ingredients. Keep a stock of marinades and rubs in the pantry.

Where will you be holidaying over the Christmas period?

I usually stay in Auckland for Christmas and New Year because it's delightful here over the holiday season. Traffic is at a dawdle, weather is generally great and people are so much happier. But this year I'm going to Singapore to see my mother, then Vietnam because I have always wanted to see Hanoi. So I'll be eating fresh prawns and crab, the best Peranakan food, and tropical fruit like mangosteen, lychees, durian, chiku, and pomegranate.

MICHAEL MEREDITH

As head chef for The Grove, Michael Meredith aspires to sublime combinations of flavour and texture that are always in balance. Few patrons would quibble, after sampling such delights as roasted quail nestled in a chestnut and chorizo porridge, just the sort of quirky combination that earned him the Outstanding Chef title at this year's Lewisham Awards. Samoan-born Meredith earned his culinary stripes at Vinnies and Ottos before helping to set up The Grove last year. If critics praise the restaurant menu for its harmonious culinary blends, Meredith's plans for Christmas Day could be utter chaos. He and partner Yosipa are coping with a testy toddler and are expecting their second child in a few weeks. If Meredith has one request of the bearded one it would be dinner reservation for two at The Fat Duck in Berkshire, England, the number one restaurant in the world.

What are you planning for Christmas?

I'll be spending Christmas with Yosipa, daughter Sophia and extended family relaxing at home. My mother is cooking a feast of Samoan foods and some organic roast chicken and potato salad - and for
dessert I'll be making summer pudding.

What food items have to be on your Christmas list?

A box of fresh mangoes because I have a lot of memories of them when I was growing up in the Islands.

What will you be eating over summer?

Lots of fruit, seafood, shellfish, juices and champagne.

Any tips for making life easier on Christmas Day?

Use what's in season and make the most of the barbecue. Keep things simple and don't over-cater so leftovers are a minimum.

Any holiday plans?

There'll be no holiday this year as we'll have our hands full with a second child.

BRAEDYN BIRSS

Braedyn Birss started as a kitchen hand at the RSA in Birkenhead, and rapidly progressed to London, where he worked alongside renowned Italian food critic Antonio Carluccio at his trendy Carluccio's establishment. Within a year, this enterprising chef was promoted to sous chef in charge of two kitchen brigades. After Birss returned to New Zealand to help reopen VBG, his replacement at Carluccio's was a young and not-so-famous Jamie Oliver. On his return to New Zealand Birss helped to transform the Parnell eatery, to the point where security had to be called in to control unseemly scrums of patrons competing for tables. In 2003, Birss started catering company Flavour in Ponsonby and last year began trading in his old stomping ground of Birkenhead.

What are you planning for Christmas?

Christmas Day will be staged in two parts. In the morning I'll be getting together with my mum, grandmother, sister, girlfriend and girlfriend's family for brunch. Mum's in charge and no doubt tomatoes on Vogel's will be on the menu. The second part of the day will involve the other side of the family from Sydney. I usually visit them but this year my Dad, my brothers Jack and Charlie and the Laughlins are coming here. The New Zealand contingent will have to step up to the mark and show the Aussies how it's done. It'll be a great day of excess, with a somewhat typical Kiwi barbecue and a few festive touches. We're catering for 28 and I've been involved in the planning to some degree, but my uncle Steve will be in charge of making it. The focal point will be a champagne ham glazed with fruit juice, spices and manuka honey. The other meats, like Italian-style leg of lamb, whole scotch fillet and lemon-infused chickens will be done on the barbecue, which will free up the oven for the good old roast vegetables. There will be plenty of salads and condiments to go with the meal.

What food items have to be on your Christmas list?

Fruit mince pies, Christmas pudding, rich brandy sauce and an embarrassing amount of French vanilla icecream - there's nothing sophisticated about that.

Any tips for making life easier on Christmas Day?

Probably the best advice is to keep it simple. Plan ahead, work out what you would like as the main ingredient for each meal, then incorporate different condiments. It's hard to go wrong if you have good ingredients, great company and a bottle of wine.

Any holiday plans?

The whole family and the Aussies are going to Coromandel where we've hired a house large enough for the lot of us. We will spend the days lounging about the beach, jet skiing and swimming. Pop's taking his launch so we'll be out there fishing for our dinner most days. I'm looking forward to snapper fillets simply dusted in seasoned flour and pan fried in lemon butter served with a green salad, crusty bread and a glass of Church Road Chardonnay.

GLENN SAUSSEY

Glenn Saussey is the newly appointed head chef at Otto's. Last year, the New York Times singled out Otto's as one of the city's best restaurants, and local food critics continue to praise its pricey but delectable menu.

With such gastro delights as, "a study of scallop, whitebait and crab" it would appear its chefs are moving into the realm of conceptual art on a plate. Saussey certainly exhibits all the fervour of an artist consumed by his work.

"My passion is working with New Zealand food and showing it off to exceptionally high standards."

Saussey honed his skills in London and Sydney, before returning to Auckland and taking up chef duties at Spencer on Byron, followed by a two-year stint at TriBeCa. Now he's in charge of training a new crop of chefs, with the daunting task of maintaining the restaurant's formidable reputation. Understandably, a sojourn in the south of France is out of the question, although Saussey is allowing time for festivities at the family bach. He is planning a dining experience where he will be in charge, if not half-cut by the end of the day.

What are you planning for Christmas Day?

I will be at family bach in Whangamata with family and friends.  We're having Christmas lunch and I'm looking forward to directing family members who are cooking, while holding a glass of wine in each hand.

What food items have to be on your Christmas list?

Honey-glazed ham, tropical fresh fruit, berries. Both are easy to prepare. To eat, one goes well with beer, the other with wine.

What will you be eating over the holidays?

Barbecues, seafood and chocolates.

Any tips for making life easier on Christmas Day?

You could get invited to have Christmas Day elsewhere, otherwise prepare as much in advance as possible. Cook extra for when those unexpected guests turn up and for leftovers on Boxing Day when you can really relax.