KEY POINTS:
I was beginning to think I was turning into a rugby groupie. A week after bumping into Graham Henry and the All Blacks at their Wellington hotel, (prior to the Irish test), I'm chatting to Robbie Deans in the foyer of Melbourne's Langham Hotel.
The next day in the lift I engage in conversation with Wallaby wing Lote Tuqiri and two of the management team. It's a good-natured ride to the 16th floor. They slay me verbally for, firstly, being a Kiwi, and secondly, for allowing Robbie Deans to finish up as the Australian rugby coach. "Can't believe our good luck," says Tuqiri.
"Looking forward to thrashing the All Blacks," says one of the managers. I bite my lip. Transtasman rivalry is a given and I've always found the Aussies to be brutal but fair and incredibly funny.
Twenty-five years ago they were exceedingly rude about our wine. Comments ranged from "So you know what a grapevine looks like then" to "Still making that paint-stripper masquerading as wine?"
Such snide put-downs have been well and truly laid to rest. New Zealand's well-earned respect is mirrored not only in many glowing articles in Australian culinary magazines, but in restaurant wine lists. It's not just a token gesture. Many restaurants have a thoughtful, well- put-together selection that many New Zealand eateries would do well to emulate.
A decade or so ago it was mainly Marlborough sauvignons which featured in top establishments in Melbourne, Sydney and Adelaide. Pinot noir, syrah, some Bordeaux styles and chardonnay are now common additions. Less likely to appear are riesling and viognier, two varietals the Australians do with considerable flair.
All in all, it's very heartening. Funny, even. At a recent wine tasting of a newish boutique Australian producer, Hesketh Wine Company, I tasted three outstanding, great value wines.
Two shiraz under $30, and one brilliant sauvignon blanc. On closer examination, the sauvignon was from Marlborough grapes, made in New Zealand and sold only in Australia.
Anybody spot the large wooden horse just outside the gates?
RECOMMENDED
2005 Hesketh Usual Suspects McLaren Vale Shiraz
Soft, velvet, gentle with a touch of green tea, this is 93 per cent shiraz and 7 per cent viognier. Not an overwhelming style.
Price: $26
2006 Green Point Yarra Valley Chardonnay
Taut, flavoursome, chablis-like with hints of peach, grapefruit rind, cinnamon and creme anglaise. Flint and savoury flavours.
Price: $27
