A three-course Argentinian dinner for rugby night

By Ray McVinnie

Herald online·

16 Jul, 2015 09:50 PM4 mins to read

Three Argentinian recipes by Ray McVinnie. Photos / Bite magazine

Tonight the All Blacks take on the Pumas, inspiring us to think about an Argentinian feast. Chef Ray McVinnie recounts his recent trip to Buenos Aires and has a three-course Argentinian-inspired dinner for you to recreate at home. It might not be do-able tonight, but the drool-worthy pictures are worth a browse anyway.

I recently spent what could be described as a very enjoyable long weekend, Friday to Tuesday, in Buenos Aires. My first time, I was there to get the feel of the place and naturally, eat the food and see the sights. Buenos Aires is big with wide boulevards, leafy parks and a variety of architecture. Each building is signed by the architects with a plaque naming them. There is everything from elaborate ornate Belle Epoque buildings to more utilitarian Soviet style blocks, one with a gigantic neon of Eva Peron which greets you as you drive into the city.

We stayed at the Sofitel Hotel in the Retiro area which was a bit like the nicer areas of Paris, elegant buildings, tree-lined streets and small art galleries. Most streets were studded with restaurants or traditional bakeries. There are also many shops selling riding equipment, specifically for polo which the Argentinians are nuts about, and for being a gaucho - lots of traditional woven ponchos, quality leatherwork and hats.

There is a certain, quite charming, time-warpish feel about Buenos Aires. It feels like the 1990s rather than 2015. Apparently smart phones and tablets are prohibitively expensive in Argentina so that retro feeling is perpetuated by the fact that people still do things like read books.

We went to the famous theatre, el Ateneo Grand Splendid, that has been converted into a huge bookstore. A glance into the theatre's boxes showed them occupied by happy readers. I headed for a soothing session in the cookery section and to listen to the great jazz they were playing.

We checked out La Boca, formerly a European-migrant area in the port area of southeast Buenos Aires. Today this is tourist Tango Central. There are brightly coloured tenement houses, a lot of tango being danced on the street, many photographs being taken, lots of restaurants and, when I was there, pre-lunch, lots of charcoal grills covered with meat being barbecued.

No visit to Buenos Aires is complete without a stroll around the Recoleta cemetery. This is a true necropolis of opulent tombs, in various states of repair, arranged in streets (at busy intersections I expected a "cross now" signal). Each tomb seemed to have glass doors so you could see into what was often a small but comfortable, if a bit suburban, living room (I use the term reservedly) with coffins visible and often with a chair for a visitor. The place was packed with the living come to visit and the climax of the tour was Eva Peron's (or actually her family's, the Duartes') tomb, which was barricaded with floral tributes from fans.

Another highlight was a visit to the Museum of Decorative Art, housed in one of the many large mansions built by the old families of Buenos Aires with money they made from beef at the turn of the century. This museum is interesting not just for the art and furnishings, or the Canaletto, the El Greco or the Rodin I brushed with my elbow as I walked around the crowded interior, but because it is a mansion. You can go into the white marble bathrooms and bedrooms and see how the creme of Buenos Aires society used to live.

We saw the Metropolitan Cathedral, Pope Francis' church, and his modest former apartment; we saw the Casa Rosada or Pink House, the home of the President of Argentina, where Madonna was filmed in her role as Eva Peron in Evita.

Every Sunday there is a giant flea market, the Feria de San Pedro Telmo, a visit to which made the pulses quicken for the food writers among us. This was not because of food: the food market is held during the week, but because of the many second-hand kitchen goods for sale. Food writers are always looking for props for photographs- it is like an unscratchable itch - so San Telmo market was perfect territory for such loot. You can find anything from an antique comb to a full dinner service.

As I didn't leave the city, I had little concept of Argentina, the country, so Buenos Aires felt very European, like Madrid, or, in parts, Paris. I thought Europe was 24 hours away but found a very stylish European city which will soon be even closer when Air New Zealand starts its direct flights in December.