A Taste of ... Charente, France

Home to Cognac and goats cheese, Hugo's Bistro shares a recipe inspired by Charente. Photo / Getty images

Charente is a relatively unknown region of France, just north of Bordeaux. Colloquially known as Cagouillards, after the small grey snail adored in the region, the Charentaise are rightfully proud of their land. It is rich with fish, shellfish and fleur de sel from Oleron, Echire butter, Limousin beef and Barbezieux chickens.

The town of Cognac lends its name to the world-famous spirit produced there, and the hills of the Grande and Petit Champagne are criss-crossed with vines growing ugni blanc grapes to be fermented and distilled in generations-old copper stills.

Alongside tradition in Charente, a new generation is inheriting the vines and bringing change and new energy. Jean Pasquet and his wife Amy are growing the notoriously temperamental folle blanche grapes organically and biodynamically to produce incredible cognac.

At Baume de Bouteville, we visited Lionel Sack who has taken a small family tradition of making vinegar from ugni blanc and created a world-class operation ageing cognac vinegar in oak for up to 10 years. It's providing some of France's top chefs with a product of unique character and flavour.

Alfie Ingham is the head chef at Hugo's Bistro in Auckland's CBD. Photo / Supplied

Charente is also particularly well known for its goat cheeses. Its most famous is chabichou which has its own tourist trail, Route Du Chabichou. Other cheeses are less famous but no less delicious.

On my last visit, a small auberge (French for inn) simply served a plate groaning with all manner of "fromages du chevre". Some were small and crumbly with age, some were creamy and fresh. This, for me, is the taste of Charente.

Chevre Chaud (Goat's Cheese Toast)

More an assembly of great ingredients than a recipe, buy the best goat cheese, honey and bread you can and this dish will punch well above its weight.

Fresh New Zealand goat cheeses are at their best in spring. Lush pasture helps produce a rich and flavourful cheese without the funk some come to expect. There are some great spring-milk goat cheeses available in New Zealand now. Get to know a quality cheesemonger and try looking for Cranky Goat or Drunken Nanny.

Fresh New Zealand goat's cheeses are at their best in spring. Photo / Supplied

Try on a slice of toast with a salad for a light lunch, or make small crostini and serve it as a snack at a barbecue with friends.

• Alfie Ingham is the head chef at Hugo's Bistro in Auckland CBD

Goat's Cheese
Bread: baguette is traditional, but try whatever takes your fancy, a crusty sourdough would be great
Honey
Herbs: parsley, chives and chervil, or try harder herbs such as rosemary, thyme and sage
Extra virgin olive oil
Salad leaves (optional)

1. Preheat your oven or grill to 190C
2. Toast a slice of bread and arrange on a baking tray
3. Spread with a thick slice of goat's cheese and drizzle with olive oil
4. Bake or grill until the cheese is warm and starting to melt and bubble
5. Transfer to a plate and drizzle with a generous amount of honey, olive oil, salt and freshly ground black pepper, and scatter the herbs on top

• Hugo's Bistro is one of 13 restaurants taking part in this year's Taste of Auckland. From October 31 to November 3 at Queen's Wharf, tasteofauckland.co.nz.