A sign of greatness

By FIONA HAWTIN

Fashion-goers got a whirlwind tour of the Pacific on the first day of New Zealand Fashion Week yesterday as well as an assured singular vision from one of our design stars.

Zambesi, keen as ever on dero chic, chose to show its Wild at Heart collection from the old Chief Post Office.

Designer Elisabeth Findlay's signature floaty, georgette vintage-look dresses were teamed with smooth, metallic satins, textured wool coats and riding boots.

The narrow silhouette means slimline pants - there was even a pair of drainpipe jeans - and the return of the waist with a beautiful fitted wool jacket cinched tightly with a leather belt.

Highlights were the Black Watch tartan filmy dresses and wool kilts, the sequinned sleeves peeping out from under muscle T-shirts.

The first of four days of shows started when three Style Pasifika designers took to the runway at the Auckland Town Hall.

Traditional siva dancers gave a Samoan flavour to hip hop artist King Kapisi, aka Bill Urale, and his Overstayer streetwear label for men and women.

Urale also performed Stomping, one of his latest songs, as he showed his winter range for the urban hip hopper.

Urale paired sleeveless hoodies printed with his shield of two crossed microphones with loose jeans.

The pandanus woven back pocket was a hit, as was the men's tracksuit with a lava lava.

But it was Leiana Rei Perawiti's paua-printed swimwear that was the runaway success.

No sooner than the well-cut bikinis and one-piece suits, teamed with chiffon sarongs and resort hoodies, had done a turn on the catwalk, some of the audience were heard planning their holiday wardrobes.

Her paua prints went to the top of their must-pack list.



Sera Mitchinson's Selector label showed urban denim paired with easy-wear top boasting screen-printed tui and a slogan warning against the extinction of species.

A lot was expected of Christchurch designer Sharon Ng after her knock-out show last year.

Her @home collection with elements of grown-up kiwiana did not disappoint.

She skilfully used fabrics printed with artist Tim Main's kowhai flower, flax and fern designs to great effect.

They were used sparingly in long lines that had women in narrow pants, pencil skirts, diagonal pleat skirts and elegant, mannish shirts.

Liberal use of muted browns were brightened with the occasional hit of teal and red.

The Canterbury group started with Sakaguchi, a label wholly devoted to special occasion pieces with the emphasis on little black dresses with a Japanese feel.

Veteran designer Barbara Lee, the woman who gave Paula Ryan her start in modelling, channelled Chanel in a strong collection of black and white that went from naughty gym frocks to tailored suits.

For over-the-top evening wear there was the ostrich feather mini or the scarlet woman corset bridegown modelled by Nicky Watson.

Christchurch leather designer Caroline Moore did all her usual things - well-cut black pants and lambskin jackets. But the fitted corsets and pumpkin ra-ra minis were a fresh use of skins.

Vertice/Vamp showed reality fashion.

This included a bit of everything from tartan pants, pinstripe jackets to red lacy dresses and the zip detail that Winter 2004 promises plenty of.

High Society's four labels also managed to cover plenty of bases.

Most interesting was Chocolat, its range for "women of all sizes" as described by design director Laurinda Suttcliffe.

Television presenter Mary Lambie joined singers Jackie Clark and Jo Cotton to model the Paris-in-the-30s look.

* Last night's late shows State of Grace and World finished after Herald deadlines and will be included in tomorrow's report.

Herald Feature: New Zealand Fashion Week

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