A quiet isle with talent

Destiny Bay Mystae. Photo / Supplied

"Overpriced, overhyped and over there" is the phrase often glibly attributed to the boutique wines of Waiheke Island.

Just because I live on the island doesn't mean I have to - or ought to - defend my neighbours.

However, it has been noted that in recent months some island wines have taken out significant awards at some prestigious local and international wine competitions. In both cases the wines were under $40.

Hats off, then, to Kennedy Point and Mudbrick Vineyards who have given us all a sharp reminder that although superb quality wines may come at a cost above the supermarket aisle specials, you don't have to mortgage the farm.

Also, in the news with a variety of highly acclaimed wines have been Obsidian, Passage Rock, Te Whau, The Hay Paddock and Cable Bay. The established dinosaurs of Waiheke wines - Goldwater, Stonyridge and Te Motu - continue their defined roles of "elder statesmen" and enjoy something of a cult following.

Why the renaissance of Waiheke wines? After almost 30 years of experimentation the locals have worked out what this island does best, and some of those early planted vines are maturing beautifully.

Also Waiheke has become a viable, vibrant, yet peaceful place to live and consequently has no trouble attracting talented young winemakers and viticulturists. Two not exactly brand new but newly emerging island producers are the extensively planted Man O'War on Waiheke's north-east, the largest vineyard by far, and the tiny, but perfectly put-together, Destiny Bay.

Expatriate American businessman Michael Spratt and his family own the latter and reclusive New Zealand multimillionaire John Spencer the former. Man O'War has a broad portfolio, including what the island is doing particularly well - syrah.

Destiny Bay wines were initially targeted at the United States but are now available locally.

Recommended

2008 Man O' War Chardonnay
Perfect summer drinking. Smells of fresh lemon dessert and honey and you can taste the citrus fruits, especially grapefruit. Elegant, lively finish.
Price: $27

2006 Destiny Bay Mystae
Grown, produced and bottled at Destiny Bay. Cabernet-dominant, with merlot, cabernet franc and a dash of malbec. Powerful, dense, opulent with wonderful fruit concentration. Will reward cellaring. Only 400 cases.
Price: $115