A point of difference

Dog Point 2008 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Photos / Sarah Ivey

I have it on good authority that Bob Dylan loves playing Auckland's Civic Theatre. For a man used to filling significant arenas, this could be seen as a random act of madness. Isn't it always about playing to as many paying customers as possible, economy of scale and all that jazz?

Apparently the size of the crowd doesn't matter. What's more important for Dylan these days is a feeling of intimacy, being able to eyeball his audience and bask in the acoustics and embrace the moment afforded by a purpose-built venue. Small, it seems, can still be beautiful.

Maybe it's this kind of attitude and feeling that saw Ivan Sutherland and James Healey, two of the early pillars of that internationally revered producer, Cloudy Bay, decide to leave the comfort and commercial guarantee of the mothership and pursue their own smaller, riskier venture.

Dog Point's first release was the 2002 vintage and the now not-so-new enterprise is turning quite a few heads. Quality wines don't happen by chance. They are born of careful clever management in the vineyard, and sensitive, thoughtful and often non-interventionist winemaking.

That same level of expertise shown at Cloudy Bay is now very evident at Dog Point. No pressure, but expectations were significantly high, and Sutherland and Healey were always up for it and keen to broaden the region's reputation.

Says Healey, "Sauvignon blanc is something of an Achilles heel for us. When people think of Marlborough they only think of sauvignon blanc."

Naturally sauvignon is part of the portfolio but great attention is given to quality chardonnay and pinot noir. "The wines will always be a bit different," says Sutherland, an indication that Dog Point is not about being a carbon copy of past glories.

The vineyard gets its name from the early days, when there were few fences and shepherds' dogs sometimes became lost or wandered off and eventually bred into a marauding pack. The soil types are highly favourable: free-draining silty clay loams on the flats, and clay loam on gentle, closely planted hill slopes ideally suited to chardonnay, sauvignon and pinot.

But wine doesn't make itself and the combined wisdom and skill of two of our finest winemakers will ensure Dog Point continues to snap at the heels of all comers.

RECOMMENDED

2008 Dog Point Chardonnay $29
A full-bodied wine reflecting the meaty, concentrated styles of white burgundy. Big flavours with a mouth-filling mineral undercurrent. Nuts and citrus with a refreshing lemony finish.

2008 Dog Point Pinot Noir $40
Deep, inviting crimson colour from a selected clonal mix from specific vineyard sites. Combining flavours of black and ripe red fruits with touches of savouriness. Opulent without being overbearing.