KEY POINTS:
Some of the best results in fashion and beauty result from clever collaborations. For his autumn 08 collection Ungaro designer Esteban Cortazar collaborated with leading makeup artist Sharon Dowsett and M.A.C makeup to come up with a unique look that reflected the dreamy quality of the clothes. The result is a 14-piece makeup collection available now from M.A.C stores. Here they talk exclusively to Viva about their experience.
ESTEBAN CORTAZAR
Cortazar is just 24 years old, but already the precocious designer has built a name for himself with his blend of femininity and sex appeal. The Miami-born resident showed his first collection in New York at the age of 18, and was named as head designer at Ungaro last year.
How did the collaboration with M.A.C come about?
M.A.C approached me and I felt so excited. It wasn't even a question in my mind. I would never think about another makeup company I could do this with. It was just something that happened so naturally and it felt that I was about to do a collaboration with my friends.
Were you a fan of M.A.C before this?
Yes, definitely. The collaboration between Ungaro and M.A.C developed by a very spontaneous relationship that I personally have with M.A.C, and that I've had for a very long time. And it just made sense for them to support me in this way now that I'm here at Ungaro.
How would you describe the Ungaro woman? Do you see a similar sort of woman wearing the M.A.C makeup?
The Ungaro woman is unapologetically feminine. She has this sort of free-spirited attitude, this sort of seduction that seems very effortless, the little touch of sensuality, the feeling of softness - all that comes across in the ready-to-wear collection. So, the makeup collection definitely is coming from the same place. I also wanted it to have a timeless feeling. Something that a woman can relate to right now and one year from now.
What was the inspiration behind the makeup collection?
The colours and the feeling came out from the collection we did for autumn 2008. It definitely came from there. We were working on it simultaneously.
Your favourite piece from the collection?
From the Ungaro for M.A.C collection I love the Crushed Bougainvillea. It's my favourite. It makes you glow and it makes you just look so much healthier than you did before you added it on. It just makes you have that little extra colour. It gives a very effortless sexiness right away, which I love.
Your favourite muses?
I would say that my beauty muses are my friends: the girls that are in my life that inspire me and that I speak to on a personal level and on a professional level. It's the essence of who they are that inspires me.
Your thoughts on the final collection?
I really wanted to make sure that the collection had a timeless feeling; that it would work for the autumn collection and also next spring and for the following seasons. I definitely feel that this came across beautifully. There are products in this collection that will work for every skin tone, for every style, for every personality. And it's ageless - which I love about this collection.
SHARON DOWSETT
Sharon Dowsett is a leading makeup artist who has spent the last two decades working with the world's top photographers, and on fashion shows for everyone from Collette Dinnigan to Temperley and many more in between. She is also the key makeup artist for Ungaro, and worked closely with the brand's designer, Esteban Cortazar, and M.A.C to create this new collaboration.
How did you come up with the concept for the makeup collection?
Esteban Cortazar, the designer, shared his original ideas for the prints and palette of the collection and was specific about the woman who would wear his clothes. Nature featured strongly and the idea of crushed rose petals as makeup was particularly inspiring.
What sort of woman do you see wearing the makeup?
Feminine yet tough, spontaneous, sensual, cosmopolitan, natural, unaffected, free-spirited.
Your favourite piece from the collection, and why?
The Crushed Bougainvillea Creme Colour Base because it looks like blood under the skin... pure health! We love it so much, we're using it for spring/summer 2009 also!
How did you instil the Ungaro 'look' into the collection?
We chose an earthy eye to complement the nature aspect and made it colourful according to Monet's Water Lilies, which echoed the fashion palette. The Ungaro signature fuschsia pink was softened as a stain.
Your beauty muses?
Debbie Harry, Kate Moss and my mum.
What was the best thing about collaborating with M.A.C on this collection?
The opportunity to work with Gordon Espinet (vice-president of M.A.C's makeup artistry department) is always embraced. The product development team observed, listened and improved upon my wishes. And I was amazed at the speed in which they turned it around! It's genuine... literally from catwalk to counter.
Your best beauty tip?
Feel comfortable, smile and don't worry about growing up and older... youth is a club from which everyone is eventually excluded and age brings gifts such as wisdom and accessories.
