Tokyo: The City that never sleeps

The 634m-high Tokyo Sky Tree.

Gazing across Tokyo's sweeping forest of twinkling high-rises is every bit as electrifying as the vertical verve of Manhattan. It's a city that seemingly never sleeps and never stops working.

The 1958-vintage Tokyo Tower remains a beloved tourist icon, symbolising the city's post-war rebirth and design inspired by the Eiffel Tower.

Five years ago, the Tokyo Sky Tree opened its lofty observation deck to the world, billing itself as the world's "tallest free-standing tower" at 634 metres. It's another great spot to watch the sun set behind Mt. Fuji.

Surrounded by canyons of commerce and high-density living, the high-powered business district of Marunouchi is proudly home to the Imperial Palace.

Home to Emperor Akhito and family, I enjoyed a stroll through the palace's east garden and its exquisitely twisted pine trees, which feels a world away from the big-city bustle.
The moat and stone walls date back to the original Edo Castle, which was the world's largest fortress in its heyday.

Snap yourself at the landmark spot where the Imperial Palace pops its head over the famed Double Bridge, the Nijubashi, where ceremonial soldiers stand sentinel.

Nihonbashi neighbours Marunocuhi, which also fittingly exudes a timeless elegance, given it was a flourishing merchant hub in the Edo era. Walking across the stately century-old granite Nihonbashi bridge, guarded by stone lions and dragons, I noticed a marker on the road.

The Imperial Palace, home to Emperor Akhito and family.

It denotes the official starting point for Japan's highways, from which all road distances were measured in the Edo period.

Explore Nihonbashi Nakadori, a 50 metre pedestrianised lane, brimming with atmospheric cafes and shops, evoking the trading spirit of yesteryear.

Nihonbashi is where I enjoyed a seriously good department store fix, browsing the grandest of stores. Don't miss the subterranean spectacle that beckons in the basement food hall.

Every major department store features one of these underground wonderlands, where freshly baked breads, traditional delicacies, sweet treats and seasonal fruits are meticulously presented in the most mouth-watering and artful ways.

The presentational flair of the displays are museum-worthy. In-season fruit seems to get particularly special attention, where a few choice specimens are sculpted into the most astonishing edible artworks.

I was speaking to one food hall attendant in Mitsukoshi Department Store who summed up their presentational finesse perfectly. "We like to make the eye smile."

The same applies at Takashimaya, which modelled its layout on Harrods of London. It's all marble columns, chandeliers and uniformed female elevator operators, who herald the arrival at each floor with a sing-songy announcement.

Purchase an item at these old-school department stores and the shop assistant will chaperone you to the exit, with a farewell bow to send you on your way. Just imagine that at K-Mart!