When the waka Ngatokimatawhaorua celebrates its 70th birthday tomorrow, one of its original paddlers will quietly remember the maiden voyage.
Te Aupouri's Glass Murray, 86, from Te Kao, is believed to be the last living member of the original 1940 crew who paddled at the 100th anniversary of the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi.
Relashed last year, the 37m waka still hasn't lost its edge, he says.
"Ngatoki's a big waka but she's quite fast. On choppy days, she can cut through the water - she moves beautifully."
Aged 17 at the time, Mr Murray was one of more than 50 original paddlers who were selected to take the waka from where it had been berthed at the Kerikeri River out into the Bay of Islands proper, and finally to Waitangi.
Tainui's Princess Te Puea had it commissioned for the 1940 commemorations and met the paddlers before they started.
"She was quite talkative, asked us 'No hea koe?' [Where are you from?] and so on. She carried herself regally but she didn't have that haughtiness."
Mr Murray was positioned about six from the front and sat grouped with paddlers from Te Rarawa and Ngati Kuri, neighbouring Far North iwi.
Negotiating bends on the downriver journey was difficult but three kaihautu (leaders) stationed along the length of the boat kept the novice rowers in check.
"There were some real hairpins - one side would be breaking and the other side wouldn't be doing anything. At the time I thought it was just for show, but later I realised what they were doing - keeping us stable, getting us through."
This week, Mr Murray and his wife, Ngawini, have been staying in "tent city", the area behind Te Tii Marae set aside for paddlers. Most camped out are teenagers and being around them has been "invigorating", Mr Murray said.
"You know, 70 years is a long time to tick off, but being here today you feel that the wairua [spirit] is still the same. People are still doing what we did all those years ago."
The retired engineer is thinking of sneaking away from Waitangi before tomorrow. He doesn't want any fuss made over the fact that he is the last of an era.
But Ngatoki's present captain, Joe Conrad, said Mr Murray's presence is a special highlight of the week.
"It's a huge privilege for us all to hear his story and knowledge. That's the greatest thing for us - we're all sharing it together."
Waka paddler returns 70 years on
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