KEY POINTS:
Waitangi was a tale of two sides of a bridge yesterday as a carnival atmosphere dominated on the Treaty Grounds side while Maori activists told gang members they wouldn't be able to march on the other.
Much about the hikoi, which had a Tuhoe focus, was orchestrated -
from the position of the flags to the placement of banners.
Before it began on the Te Tii side, about 40 members from Auckland-based chapters from the Crips, Bloods and Tribesmen who were in the north to try to reconnect with their culture, were told by organisers they would not be marching.
Witnesses said the mixture of young and old men took the news well and "sheepishly" wandered away.
As the 800- to 1000-strong group walked up the curving hill after they'd crossed the bridge, Hinewharu Harawira boomed out instructions while sitting on the back of a car which was travelling at the front.
"Bring that kotahitanga flag to the fore. Where's that Pakeha banner? Bring it to the front."
Marchers' catchphrases included: "Clarke is plaque," "Ruatoki - they terrorised our people and they got away with it" and "tahi, rua, toru, wha - vote the Maori Party."
It took an hour and a half for the group to make it across the bridge to the flagpole, ending with speeches at the national marae. While they faced a little heckling, many just watched on bemused while taking pictures.
The day got off to an unsettled start with a woman who interrupted prayers at the Dawn Service bundled out by Maori wardens - but most were happy to make light of the situation.
The sun hadn't even risen and the hen had started to crow, said Ngapuhi leader Sonny Tau.
At the end of the service, a man performed a haka before launching a tirade about honouring the treaty.
But the minor blips proved not to be a sign of things to come.
Another leader, John Komene, said that by past standards, this year's interruptions were tame.
"We just ignore that sort of thing, it encourages scuffles, we just let them go away and take no notice."
Organisers said that by midday more than 20,000 had poured on to the Waitangi National Trust Estate to celebrate the nation's birthday. An estimated 40,000 would have been there throughout the day, they said.
At noon the Navy fired a 21-gun salute, the reports raising flights of startled seabirds and reverberating before the near-silent crowd.
For the first time, Prime Minister Helen Clark was honoured by 12 salutes from waka as she sat on the double-hulled Te Aurere with mariner Hec Busby.
People wandered in and out of stalls as bands played and a touch tournament got under way - most were just out to have a good time.
Kuia Mere Piripi was part of a Ngati Wai representatives group raising awareness about the health benefits of seafood - by giving it away free.
Two big bins of kina sat at her feet and she was working her way through one of the juicy morsels telling the inquisitive to "help yourself, help yourself".
Decked out in pink, Karen Mackie was dancing up a storm with her toddler moko Waimirirangi Mackie.
She had been manning a stall all day and needed some relief, she said. "We're celebrating."
Recent English immigrant Malcolm Sowerby had a great time.
"The kids were loving the hip-hop, they were all having a really nice time.
"I think there's a lot more tolerance and willingness to learn."