Womad: Master Drummers of Burundi

The Master Drummers of Burundi. Photo / Supplied

Womad returns to New Plymouth next weekend with a line-up strong on the big names of Afro-music. Scott Kara talks to the Masater Drummers of Burundi as they head to Taranaki.

When they last played Womad in New Zealand - in the concrete jungle of Auckland's Aotea Square in 1999 - the Master Drummers of Burundi marched out with big drums balanced on their heads, beating them as they went.

Then they stopped, and like an ancient ritual they set up the drums in a semi-circle, and placed the lead drum, known as the Inkiryana, with pride of place in the centre.

After a few celebratory vocal cheers, by way of a welcome, they cracked into it with a blissfully pummelling percussive mantra. As they performed the drummers took turns at playing the Inkiryana, and they leapt, tumbled, and flailed around the stage in between drumming.

And when they finished one piece of music, bringing it to an end with a thunderous crack, they ducked down - almost cheekily - behind their drums as if they were hiding. Then they would rumble back into another rousing rhythm. It was spectacular, and they return to Womad in New Plymouth next weekend.

They have toured the world for 40 years, and with performances like that it's no wonder their concerts inspired Womad founder Thomas Brooman to set up the world music, art and dance festival back in 1982.

On the phone from the Burundi capital Bujumbura, the drummer's master of ceremonies, Gabriel Ntagabo, says performing around the world is a privilege because their job is "showing the world one of the best creations in the Burundian culture".

"To be in the group is magnifique," he says in his French lilt (the languages of Burundi are French and Kirundi). "It is important for us that after our performance [the audience] know where Burundi is and what Burundi is."

It is a small, land-locked country in the Great Lakes region of East Africa nestled between the Democratic Republic of Congo, Tanzania, and Rwanda. "It really is like a dot on the map," laughs Ntagabo.

Though it is one of the poorest countries in the world, and has a long history of political unrest and civil wars, it has a rich musical and cultural tradition. And these drums - carved from d'umuvugangoma trees with a skin of stretched cowhide - are sacred in Burundi.

The drummers are considered by the people of Burundi as the most important upholders of the country's musical tradition.

"The music is like a map of our life," he says. "We have a succession of things which represents the steps of Burundi life. Some songs are about peace, the everyday life of Burundi people, about the importance of traditional culture. Then you have the cow. It is an important animal, and the drums are covered with the cow skin.

The origins of the group stretch back to the 16th century and in the past the drummers performed exclusively for the King.

However, though the drums are still sacred, these days they play at local festivals, special occasions, as well as touring.

"The drum is respected, not only in the past, but to this day. The drum is essential for special ceremonies in our country."

Ntagabo started drumming when he was 15 years old in 1975 and though the tradition of playing these drums is handed down from father to son he insists "you become a drummer just because you like to play drums".

"You do it just for you," he says quietly but proudly.

-TImeOut