TV Review: MasterChef, episode 3

Judges (from left) Josh Emett, Simon Gault and Ray McVinnie have at least one contestant scared. Photo / Supplied

Well the 12 MasterChef finalists have moved into Auckland's equivalent of the Playboy Mansion - it had to be on the Shore, all 80s white plaster and glass, or we wouldn't be in reality-land.

The squeals and gasps are more suited to baby Top Models than grown-up cooks, but it is game on. The wannabe chefs have picked up their goodies - a 'droid phone, a swish bag of knives - and can now start seriously eyeing up the competition.

It's always sweet to hear the introductions and aspirations of the chefs. Phlegmatic Cameron would be happy to sleep in a tent, he just wants to get on with the cooking. Builder Sam is the envy of his chippie mates as he unfolds another masterpiece at lunch, complete with designer tea-towel bib. Realist Jax admits the judges are the three grinches - "they scare the bejesus out of me".

All have aspirations of opening a food business, but already you're left wondering how much they realise running a bar, a restaurant or a cafe requires more than just good knife skills.

Last year's winner, Brett McGregor, has some useful words of former school teacher advice - learn from everyone. These aspiring cooks may well take note of how he is, in his words, "cement[ing] his place as one of New Zealand's foodies" with an inspirational mix of media appearances, cooking schools and cook-book writing, far from the heat of a commercial kitchen.

It's always a thrill to see the contestants roll into the MasterChef kitchens for the first time, wowed by the stainless-steel appliances and lavish supplies in the pantry.

We know this will be our home for the next couple of months, that personalities will emerge, that there will be tears and triumph, and all that. One poor schlub need not have bothered unpacking the suitcase; it will be home time in less than three hours.

The first challenge is to define modern New Zealand cuisine, choosing from snapper, lamb or fruit. The majority plump for lamb. Already poor Kathleen has forgotten the lesson from last week - good chefs must be able to count - and scrambles out of the pantry with 17 instead of the allowed 13 ingredients.

But she wasn't called ballsy by Simon for nothing - as the judges removed her four extras, she bravely invited them to "take it all, I'll make something out of the box". After all, Brett made the same boo-boo last year and he ended up winning.

Most of the choices were safely from the tourist menu - racks of lamb, a fair smattering of mint and peas, plenty of mash or kumara. But the exceptions were exceptional: Cameron's auntie's peach chutney dolled up with prawns, Nadia's leeks and spring onions, Michael's anchovies and Antony's sun-dried tomatoes.

The chefs explored the fusion of Italian, Asian and Pasifika that have become so much part of us that we forget our grannies wouldn't have had a clue what to do with polenta or avocado.

The judges are less swoony this time, and Simon growls at Robert when he says he's not a chef, but he will be. Not on our time, buddy.

When the praise comes, it is more considered. It's hard to know whether Ray is damning with faint praise when he says Jax's lamb "olives" would suit a modern cafe on Ponsonby Rd.

Over-fussy presentation and garnishes are no-nos, and the judges hate uncertainty ("do you know what you are doing?") and boring (Josh refused to taste one dish, saying, "I know what it tastes like without even trying").

The first sweaty elimination round is as expected. Cameron's auntie's peach relish nailed Kiwi food for the judges and he has another win under his belt.

Bizarre choices relegated Robert and Kathleen to the bottom two; as ubiquitous as they are on a busy Monday night, student-flat nachos are not Kiwi. Nor is uncooked pastry roulade-sort-of-lamb-Wellington.

A teary Kathleen is sent home, middle-of-the-ranks chefs all gulp and vow to work on their presentation and Cameron gets a sneak look at next week's challenge, pasta making.