The September Issue

Rating

: * * * *

Verdict

: W

ell structured, entertaining and revealing documentary.

Anna Wintour, Editor in Chief of American

Vogue

magazine, is regarded as the single most important person in the $300 billion global fashion industry. Astute and highly respected, she also has a reputation for being an ice queen, a notion she does little to dispel in this compelling documentary from director R.J. Cutler (The War Room).

According to

Vogue

publisher Tom Florio, Wintour sees herself as the "director and producer" of the fashion world, and, with unprecedented access, this behind the scenes look at the 2007 production of the biggest issue of the year reveals just how powerful, influential and regal her reign is.

Considering Wintour spends most of her time in public hiding behind large black sunglasses, she looks surprisingly relaxed about being followed by a camera crew. Occasionally she gives the crew a look of disdain, in one instance implying "do you really need to film me standing in an elevator?", but generally her performance appears genuine.

There is plenty of intrigue around Wintour, but Cutler refrains from getting too personal. There's a fleeting visit to Wintour's city and Long Island homes, a brief chat with her daughter Bee Schaffer who claims the fashion industry is too "weird" for her, and a short interview where Wintour describes her upbringing as "Victorian", and her newspaper editor father as "inscrutable".

With these genes you would think that the snobby and cold image Wintour projects would be difficult to see past, but thankfully Wintour does show herself, and that's what makes this documentary so entertaining.

Yes, there's the arms crossed, bored look, but the camera reveals so much more, at the expense of both her staff and world famous designers such as John Paul Gaultier, and Yves Saint Laurent head designer Stefano Pilati. Boredom, impatience, disappointment, and indifference are just some of the expressions that flicker across her face, which contrast starkly with her warm, touchy-feely charm when dealing with Vogue's advertisers.

While Wintour is the big name, the unexpected star is creative director Grace Coddington who started working at Vogue on the same day as Wintour, 20 years ago.

Initially she refused to be filmed, but Cutler's persistence in getting her on screen pays off as her styling of the clothes and photos is as crucial to the success of Vogue as Wintour's overall vision, and she's the most open participant about the challenges of working with Wintour.

If you're hoping for the bitchy dramatics of the fashion magazine reality TV shows, or a real life remake of

The Devil Wears Prada

, then you'll be disappointed with Cutler's respectful attitude. Fortunately, editor-at-large Andre Leon Talley makes an appearance.

Self-important, dripping in designer clothing and utterly ridiculous he thankfully stops Cutler short of ruining all our preconceived ideas of the superficial nature of the fashion industry.

Francesa Rudkin

Cast

: Anna Wintour

Director

: R.J. Cutler

Running time

: 90 mins

Rating

: PG (Coarse Language)